Hawkers join celebrity chefs on Michelin list

Pork noodle, soya sauce chicken eateries among 29 establishments awarded stars

Singapore's first Michelin-starred hawker stalls are Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle at Chinatown Food Complex run by Mr Chan Hon Meng (left), 51; and Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle in Crawford Lane, run by Mr Tang Chay Seng, 70. The two
Singapore's first Michelin-starred hawker stalls are Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle at Chinatown Food Complex run by Mr Chan Hon Meng (left), 51; and Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle in Crawford Lane, run by Mr Tang Chay Seng, 70. The two stalls were given one-star ratings in the inaugural edition of the Singapore Michelin Guide, launched last night at Resorts World Sentosa. ST PHOTO: ALPHONSUS CHERN
Chef Joel Robuchon (right) and executive chef Michael Michaelidis of Joel Robuchon Restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa, the only restaurant here to be awarded three Michelin stars.
Chef Joel Robuchon (right) and executive chef Michael Michaelidis of Joel Robuchon Restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa, the only restaurant here to be awarded three Michelin stars. ST PHOTO: SEAH KWANG PENG
Corner House, Botanic Gardens
Forest, Resorts World Sentosa

A pork noodle stall and a soya sauce chicken stall were made Singapore's first Michelin-starred hawkers in the inaugural Singapore Michelin Guide, in a list that was dominated by celebrity chefs.

At the launch of the guide last night in Resorts World Sentosa, Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle in Crawford Lane and Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle in Chinatown Complex were among 29 establishments awarded stars. They each received one star.

Tai Hwa owner Tang Chay Seng, 70, said: "I was very happy when I heard the news. In Singapore, there are a lot of things that are delicious and I feel very lucky to have won. "

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Rebecca Lynne Tan talks to ST food critic Wong Ah Yoke and ST food editor Tan Hsueh Yun about some of the hits and misses in the first Michelin Guide for Singapore, which was launched on July 21 at Resorts World Sentosa.
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  • Michelin-starred establishments in S'pore

  • Three Michelin stars

    • Joel Robuchon Restaurant, Resorts World Sentosa

    Two Michelin stars

    • L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Resorts World Sentosa

    • Les Amis, Shaw Centre, Scotts Road

    • Odette, National Gallery Singapore

    • Restaurant Andre, Bukit Pasoh Road

    • Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro, Mandarin Orchard Singapore

    • Shoukouwa, One Fullerton

    One Michelin star

    • Alma by Juan Amador, Goodwood Park Hotel

    • The Kitchen at Bacchanalia, Hongkong Street

    • Beni, Mandarin Gallery

    • Candlenut, New Bridge Road

    • Corner House, Botanic Gardens

    • Crystal Jade Golden Palace, Paragon Shopping Centre

    • CUT by Wolfgang Puck, Marina Bay Sands

    • Forest, Resorts World Sentosa

    • Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle, Crawford Lane

    • Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle, Chinatown Food Complex

    • Jaan, Swissotel The Stamford

    • Lei Garden, Chijmes

    • Osia, Resorts World Sentosa

    • Putien, Kitchener Road

    • Rhubarb Le Restaurant, Duxton Hill

    • Shinji by Kanesaka, Raffles Hotel

    • Shinji by Kanesaka, The St Regis Singapore

    • Summer Pavilion, The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore

    • Sushi Ichi, Singapore Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel

    • Terra Tokyo-Italian, Tras Street

    • The Song Of India, Scotts Road

    • Waku Ghin, Marina Bay Sands

Mr Chan Hon Meng, 51, owner of Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle, said: "I hope hawkers will appear every year in the Michelin Guide."

Mr Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world, added five more to his collection. Joel Robuchon Restaurant at RWS was the only one here awarded three stars, given to restaurants that serve "exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey". His L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, also at RWS, garnered two stars, given to restaurants with "excellent cooking, worth a detour".

French restaurants Les Amis, Odette and Restaurant Andre each received two stars.

Chef Shinji Kanesaka, whose Tokyo sushi bar has two Michelin stars, scored big too. Both his restaurants in Singapore, Shinji by Kanesaka at the Raffles Hotel and The St Regis Singapore, were given one star each.

Flying the Singapore flag high were Corner House, which has become known for its chef Jason Tan's gastro-botanica cuisine; Malcolm Lee's Peranakan restaurant Candlenut; and Forest, a contemporary Chinese restaurant run by Singapore celebrity chef Sam Leong, all of which were given one star, for "a very good restaurant in its category".

Mr Lee, 32, said: "This is for the whole team's hard work, especially for Peranakan cuisine. We hope more young people will give our local cuisine a chance and be proud of it."

All in, 22 establishments received one star and six restaurants earned two stars each.

About 600 guests, comprising corporate head honchos, restaurateurs, chefs, and members of the public paid $450++ a person to attend the three-hour ceremony.

Mr Michael Ellis, international director of the Michelin guides, said: "Our inspectors were also thrilled to find that Singapore's food scene is one of the most dynamic, not only in Asia but in the entire world. From fabulous hawker stands to world-class fine dining and everywhere in between, Singapore has clearly earned her place as a truly gastronomic capital."

In his speech, Mr Lionel Yeo, chief executive of the Singapore Tourism Board, talked about the benefits of having the guide: sharing Singapore's diverse food scene with the world, the branding opportunities and how it will spur chefs here to do better.

"And yes, there'll be debates, they will be contentious at times," he added. "It's all good because we are passionate about the experiences we have when we sit down to dine."

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Sales manager Samantha Kee, 29, said: "I am surprised to see such a small number of one-star restaurants, compared with Hong Kong. I think more local restaurants should have been represented on the list. I am going to join the reservation list at Restaurant Andre as I have heard good reviews about it."

The Michelin Guide Singapore is put out by French tyre company Michelin in collaboration with the Singapore Tourism Board and wine authority Robert Parker Wine Advocate.

Restaurants are assessed by Michelin inspectors, who dine independently and anonymously. The judging criteria include the quality of the food, cooking techniques, and value for money.

To buy the guide, which costs $39.95, go to guide.michelin.sg/order-guide

• For more Michelin-related stories, go to str.sg/4wqA

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on July 22, 2016, with the headline Hawkers join celebrity chefs on Michelin list. Subscribe