Pizzaiuolo joins Unesco's heritage list

Members of the Pizzaioli Acrobats Coldiretti twirling pizza to celebrate the Unesco decision to make Neapolitan pizzaiuolo an "intangible heritage". The custom goes beyond the handling of dough to include songs and stories that have turned pizza-maki
Members of the Pizzaioli Acrobats Coldiretti twirling pizza to celebrate the Unesco decision to make Neapolitan pizzaiuolo an "intangible heritage". The custom goes beyond the handling of dough to include songs and stories that have turned pizza-making into a time-honoured social ritual.PHOTO: AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE

Naples' traditional form of pizza-making recognised as an art form by cultural body

SEOUL • Naples' pizza twirling has joined Unesco's list of "intangible heritage", securing the coveted status alongside a host of cultural treasures, including a Saudi art form traditionally practised only by women.

The art of "pizzaiuolo" - which has been handed down for generations in the southern Italian city - was given the nod yesterday by the United Nations cultural body's World Heritage Committee, which met on the South Korean island of Jeju.

It comes after some two million people joined a petition to support Naples' application, according to Mr Sergio Miccu, head of the Association of Neapolitan Pizzaiuoli - no doubt buoyed by his offer of complimentary pizza if the age-old culinary tradition joined the prestigious list.

"We'll be giving out free pizza in the streets," Mr Miccu earlier told Agence France-Presse.

The custom goes far beyond the pizzaiuolo's spectacular handling of the dough - hurling it into the air in order to "oxygenate" it - to include songs and stories that have turned pizza-making into a time-honoured social ritual.

Traditional Neapolitan pizza has a relatively thin crust with the exception of the rim, which, when baked, bloats like a tiny bicycle tyre.

"Victory!" Mr Maurizio Martina, Italy's minister for agriculture, food and forestry, wrote on Twitter. "Another step towards the protection of Italy's food and wine heritage."

Thirty-four candidates were seeking to join the list of intangible heritage, created in 2003 mainly to raise awareness, although Unesco also sometimes offers financial or technical support to countries struggling to protect their traditions.

The list already included more than 350 traditions, art forms and practices from Spain's flamenco dancing to Indonesian batik fabrics, to more obscure entries such as a Turkish oil wrestling festival and the Mongolian coaxing ritual for camels.

Saudi Arabia was among those celebrating in Jeju, claiming the tag for Al-Qatt Al-Asin - elaborate interior wall paintings traditionally done by women. The art, which promotes solidarity among women, is handed down through observation.

Bangladesh also claimed victory with its tradition of Shital Pati, an intricate weaving craft using strips of green cane to produce mats and bedspreads.

An array of traditions struggling to survive will also be given special support after being placed on an "urgent safeguarding list".

These include a whistled language that developed in Turkey as a way to communicate across steep mountains and rugged topography but is now being threatened by mobile phones.

Morocco will also get help to protect Taskiwin - a martial dance that developed in the western High Atlas mountain range and involves shaking one's shoulders to the rhythm of tambourines and flutes.

Unesco said globalisation and young people's rejection of traditional heritage had driven the practice "closer to oblivion".

Food culture already on the Unesco list includes Turkish coffee culture and tradition, the gingerbread craft of northern Croatia and the traditional ancient Georgian method of Qvevri wine-making.

AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE, REUTERS

A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on December 08, 2017, with the headline 'Pizzaiuolo joins Unesco's heritage list'. Print Edition | Subscribe