Lapping It Up

Injured? Now harness your mental strength

It was Nov 27, 2011. I had gone home with my team-mate and best friend from my college swim team for Thanksgiving. I was in California and I wanted to learn how to surf. We went to Huntington beach and the waves were about 2m high that day. Too daunting, really, for someone who had never surfed before.

Long story short, as a huge wave came towards me I pushed my surfboard to the side so I could go under, but I had not pushed the board far enough away. The wave angled it back towards me and slammed it into my arm.

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on February 24, 2018, with the headline 'Injured? Now harness your mental strength'. Subscribe