The boy in front of me is accompanied by his mother, who holds out a plastic case and a tape dispenser. "Where do you want these?" she says. "These" turn out to be home-made paper eyes, coloured inexpertly with crayon. The woman helps him stick the eyes to his hands and back. A staff member at the station is coming down the line. "Ticket sales will begin shortly," she calls. "Passengers intending to travel as yokai, please assume your demon form now."
People in the queue begin slipping on masks; a girl pulls what looks like a tablecloth over her head. The boy in front of me sticks two more paper eyes on himself.
The railway noises in the distance rumble closer. A voice over the PA system announces: "The Haunted Train is approaching. For your safety, please stand behind the yellow line. The Haunted Train is approaching."
The train is scheduled to leave at 7.15 pm but we are allowed to board before then. At 7.07pm, the first child starts to cry. Not because of the ominously dim lighting nor because of the fake hands tossed about by the air-conditioning but because two people dressed as yokai, courtesy of the organisers, have begun working their way through the carriage.
It's hard to remember that they're humans in costume when they thrust their masked faces at yours because their eyes - bulging or sunken in cavities! - and their mouths - black maws filled with a dentist's worst nightmare! - blank everything else out.
The crying has turned into full-throated screaming, aided no doubt by the yokai tendency to home in on the children who seem the most afraid.
The grown-ups are smiling at the terror. Are we bad adults?
Not everyone goes down without a fight. One little girl tries to smack a yokai in the head before burying her face in her mother's neck. The wailing continues all over the carriage, almost drowning out the soundtrack piped in over the PA system.
A distorted voice is chanting something, probably something frightening, but it's hard to hear over the bawling.
Equally heart-stopping are the yokai you don't notice at first. In the dim of the carriage, it takes a while before you see the cat ears, the tiny ogre horns, and the girl with grey lips, dark shadows under her eyes and a pale face that doesn't suggest bleaching creams so much as a freshly dug-up grave. Someone points a camera in her direction: raising her hands in approved horror flick fashion, she lurches forward. Zombie!
Because this is a yokai line, you are trapped in the carriage until the final destination: the Haunted Train doesn't stop at any of the stations in between the first one and the last.
We hurtle through station after station, the commuters on the platforms staring at us, at this train with the window shades pulled down and the carriages filled with a strange blue light. Those with small children hold them up for a better look, and point at us. The confusion, the wonderment on their faces do as much as eerie soundtracks and monster costumes to convince us that we are indeed on a ghost train, an apparition bursting out from the other world to race for an instant over mortal streets - to dazzle, to mystify, to trail a cold finger down the spine - before disappearing once again into the warm summer night.