It is midnight in Rovaniemi, Finland, and I am floating face up on a lake. Clouds drift slowly across a sky that never gets dark at this time of year.
I float for close to an hour, buoyed by a puffy red survival suit that makes me look like a teletubby on land, but keeps me warm and dry in the water. These neoprene suits are usually worn by crew on icebreaker ships. It keeps them afloat should they fall into the frigid water.