Xi'an: City of peace and spices

Once called the City of Perpetual Peace, the historic city of Xi'an is a surprising mix of history and Silk Road culture

Just about every other dish in Xi'an, it seems, is packed with chilli. The pao mo (leavened bread torn up and dunked into a meaty broth) swims in a crimson layer of heat.

Peppery flakes dot the lamb kebabs. Even the roujiamo - the Chinese city's equivalent of kong ba pao - is spicy.

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on March 24, 2019, with the headline 'City of peace and spices'. Print Edition | Subscribe