Gems of the Balkans: Beauty amid the scars

Part of the former Yugoslavia, North Macedonia layers a storied past with modern glamour

I hear midnight revellers from a far shore across Lake Ohrid, popularly pictured as a freshwater "sea" in North Macedonia because it is vast and deep.

The lake is a natural amphitheatre that magnifies sound so that the distant merrymakers and live music seem strangely within earshot, which adds to the magic of stepping into a new city.

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on March 24, 2019, with the headline 'Beauty amid the scars'. Subscribe