I am dining by the water's edge on my first night at Song Saa private island, when a waitress approaches me excitedly.
"Look," she says, pointing to something in the ocean. I follow her gaze and spy a few luminous blue-green specks, glittering like stars, dancing in the inky water.
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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on February 10, 2019, with the headline Barefoot romance in Song Saa private island. Subscribe