Theirs is a story of three generations of chefs, each with his own iron-forged quest to adapt his native cuisine to the times, in a journey sprinkled with peppercorns.
It started with the late chef Chen Kenmin, a Sichuan native who moved to Japan in 1952 and set up the first Shisen Hanten restaurant there in 1958, which earned him the accolade "Father of Sichuan cuisine".
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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on December 09, 2018, with the headline Chef Chen Kenichi of Shisen Hanten: Making Sichuan food a hit in Japan. Subscribe