NEW YORK• One of the richer paradoxes of the cocktail world is that, for all their Hawaiian shirts and beach- bum bonhomie, tiki aficionados are among the most doctrinaire pedants you will find in any bar.
Just ask Martin Cate, owner of the beloved San Francisco tiki bar Smuggler's Cove and a bit of a stickler himself on the proper tiki aesthetic.
"It is quantifiable," he said. "When I hear people say, 'Oh, tiki is whatever. It doesn't matter what it is. It's just a good time'... Now, no. That's not true. To me, that's as crazy as walking into the Guggenheim and declaring it to be Art Nouveau. There are definitions in this world."
He and his wife Rebecca recently set out to record those definitions in Smuggler's Cove: Exotic Cocktails, Rum, And The Cult Of Tiki, published in June by Ten Speed Press.
The book is as much a lifestyle manifesto as it is a guide to a particular bar and its drinks. At 352 pages, it contains not only recipes for dozens of cocktails, but also a history of the tiki movement in the United States; an accounting of its revival and quirky major players; a dissection of the decor of Smuggler's Cove and the people who created it; a novel categorisation of rum types; and an exacting definition of what the term "exotic cocktail" means.
In the Cates' opinion, the term has to do with the way drinks were created in the 1930s by Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt - aka Donn Beach, founder of the Hollywood bar and restaurant Don the Beachcomber and the acknowledged godfather of the tiki lifestyle.