Restaurants need to constantly update to ensure diners return.
Some places go crazy with the changes and it is like dining in a whole new restaurant, which works when the old concept was not working.
But with Una, the changes are subtle, more like enhancements.
There is not much to rediscover when it comes to the gambas al ajillo ($22).
It is a staple on many tapas menus. It is hard not to appreciate the fresh prawns and the generous blanket of sliced garlic. It's a reliable crowd-pleaser.
It is also a photogenic dish for those who must share their meals on social media.
Another common dish is patatas bravas ($10). The better known a dish is, the harder it is to impress.
But this one did. It is a simple dish made great because the potatoes are crispy, with an almost-earthy aioli and a spicy brava sauce.
One must-try at Una is its paella. I think any sort of paella here is a safe bet.
One of the latest is the slow-cooked paella de chorizo y habitas (from $46), with chorizo, fava beans, saffron and aioli.
The flavours are robust and I always appreciate a plate of rice that is not overly sticky. You can actually taste each grain of rice.
Also new is the fideua de calamares ($20), a variation of the paella. Instead of rice, you get noodles.
This is cooked in squid ink and is topped with deep-fried calamari.
It felt to me like xin zhou bee hoon (fried rice vermicelli), but with a stronger seafood flavour. If you're looking for a "lighter" meal, this would be it
The churros con chocolate y cafe ($14) is not new, but when you are at Una, you must order this.
It is one of the best churros in town - crisp on the outside, warm and fluffy inside.
The dark chocolate dip cuts the sweetness and adds richness.
It could well be worth skipping dinner just to get to this dessert.