Yusheng, or lohei, has become an integral part of Chinese New Year celebrations in Singapore. But it is actually a relatively new tradition that is practised primarily here and in Malaysia, and not by Chinese in other parts of the world.

The story told here is that in 1964, four Singapore chefs - Sin Leong, Hooi Kok Wai, Tham Yui Kai and Lau Yoke Pui, known collectively as the Four Heavenly Culinary Kings - came up with a colourful version of a raw fish dish that was usually eaten with congee and served it as a festive dish.