When Tangs in Orchard Road renovated its fourth floor earlier this year, it quietly closed down Island Cafe which had been serving local and Western cafe dishes for decades.
Taking its place last month is Dancing Fish Signature, an Indonesian restaurant that originated from Kuala Lumpur, where it has an outlet in Bangsar Shopping Centre.
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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on September 16, 2018, with the headline Spice world. Subscribe