Satisfying brunch at Lolla

Sea urchin pudding (from $22).
Sea urchin pudding (from $22).PHOTO: THE NEW PAPER

SINGAPORE - (THE NEW PAPER)  One of Singapore's coolest restaurants has started a Sunday brunch service.

Lolla has been serving its much-loved small plates for the past few years, and has now decided to reward early risers with simple dishes that are brimming with confidence.

Eggs are only a small part of the offerings here, sharing space with an array of dishes ranging from vegetables to cured meats.

One highlight is the addictive deep fried radishes and parsley ($11). It's as plain as described, but the crunch is seductive.

Lolla's favourites are available too - after all, if they're so good, why not have them for brunch? From that, the grilled avocado ($17) is another winner for me.

It's nearly impossible to get a table here and it's the same situation with brunch, so plan ahead. Go with a group of friends and be prepared to leave very satisfied.

Lolla's signature dish has to be the sea urchin pudding (from $22). It's a large dollop of love in the form of uni, with a squid ink custard beneath. It's as simple as it is pleasurable. Your Sunday will instantly improve after the first bite.

Squid stuffed ($26) sounds basic, but it's stuffed with squid head. This squid-in-squid combo makes for good conversation, but you'll probably be too busy eating.

Squid stuffed. PHOTO: THE NEW PAPER

I love the beef tongue hash ($28) so much, I could eat it all day. I'm usually disdainful of anything with an egg on top - I think it's a crutch for a lack of imagination - but here, the creaminess of the yolk works well with the saltiness of the hash.

Beef tongue hash. PHOTO: THE NEW PAPER

The bacon steak ($19) is perhaps the only dish I didn't enjoy. I prefer my bacon with more fat, and I find this too lean.


The doughnuts with lemon curd ($12) is on the regular menu, but I can understand why it's been brought into the brunch menu. The mix of textures - crispy doughnuts, creamy curd - is pleasing, and the deliciously sharp lemon flavour is what you'll need after you overeat.

Doughnuts with lemon curd. PHOTO: THE NEW PAPER




22, Ann Siang Road


Sunday, 10.30am to 3pm (for brunch)



This article was first published on July 13, 2016.
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