SINGAPORE - (THE NEW PAPER) There was a time when porridge was considered a "poor man's food".
These days, it is comfort food best consumed when you are sick or sad. And it does seem more comforting at Goldleaf (Taiwan) Restaurant.
The heritage restaurant has been doing this since 1971, having started out in Orchard Road. Today, its home is along another heritage area, Amoy Street.
Photos of celebrities from another era line the wall at its current location, adding to the feeling of nostalgia.
But Goldleaf is trying to catch up with the times, with new items on the menu.
Perhaps the glow of a bygone period is strong on my taste buds, but I thought the old dishes worked better. The new ones are great for one try, but it'll be the classics that get you coming back.
The braised pork with preserved vegetables ($16) is a classic dish that we all know. This version is not radical, but it is comforting and competent. I doubt it'll replace your favourite, but it won't be the worst.
I really like the prawn roll (from $8). It is a 70-year-old recipe and has remained a house favourite since it was introduced. It is understandable: The chopped prawns are fresh, and the roll is juicy and savoury enough for the blandest bowl of porridge.
New item seafood bean curd bars (from $8) is plated to be photographed, but while it is pretty, the taste and texture didn't do much for me.
New on the menu is the deep-fried Tambam ($10). The fish is fried to an addictive crisp, with a mellow sauce that the restaurant labels as "secret".
Another familiar item is the chye poh omelette ($10). There are no surprises here, with the right amount of preserved radish and the omelette boasting the right texture.
WHAT: Goldleaf (Taiwan) Restaurant
WHERE: 103, Amoy Street
WHEN: 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm
This article was first published on March 30, 2016.
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