If you do a lot of cooking, you'll soon realise that the simplest dishes are often the hardest to make. How to get perfectly smooth congee? How to make wontons that stay true to their name, which is to say, eating them should be like swallowing clouds?
Egg dishes, I find, are among some of the hardest to master.
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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on July 29, 2018, with the headline On a roll with eggs: Making the perfect tamagoyaki . Subscribe