No intricate icing on the cake with sugar recipe change

LONDON • Forget soggy Baked Alaskas and stolen custard. The latest scandal in British baking is far more serious than a mere TV competition.

Sugar manufacturer Tate & Lyle has provoked outrage among high-end cake decorators by changing the recipe of its icing sugar, making it almost impossible to use for intricate designs.

Bakers have called on the company to restore the original formula or risk losing sales.

The sugar scandal began when Tate & Lyle decided to stop using E341, also known as tricalcium phosphate, as an anti-caking agent - to prevent the formation of lumps - and switch to maize starch instead.

Ms Christine Flinn, a cake decorator from Cheshire, said she had been forced to abandon the product. "The butter icing becomes extremely grainy, it looks disgusting and so it's not something you'd want to give to customers. The glace icing has no gloss whatsoever. With royal icing - maize starch contains fat, but fat and royal icing don't go together, so it's breaking down the royal icing."

The company said it switched to maize starch because it lasted longer. Bakers complained on social media about the change when it was made last January, but despite being told that the company would reconsider its recipe, Tate& Lyle has now confirmed that the maize starch will stay.

Writing on the British Sugarcraft Guild Facebook page, one user, Sam Harrison, wrote: "My buttercream is going to firm and gritty, not smooth and fluffy like normal."

Ms Katherine Moloney complained: "I assumed it had been left out and got damp or something, it just would not sieve."

Ms Siyana Sibson added: "Buttercream feels gritty and I tried to make it silky by adding more butter, but even that didn't work! Will have to change the brand, I'm afraid. Such a shame."

Ms Jane Hatton, a bakery trainer and lecturer at the National Bakery School at London South Bank University, said the change in recipe would mostly affect professional bakers.

"With royal icing, which is egg whites and icing sugar, you need your sugar to be as pure as possible because of the piping you're doing. The maize will give it a shortening effect, so it doesn't have the ability of doing the very fine work. It dries out."

She said home bakers should not be put off by the news. "It starts getting a bit confusing if you start telling the public 'Oh it's all gone wrong now, you can't use it'. Most people will be able to handle it for what they want at a domestic level.

"If at an industrial level we're doing 20 wedding cakes a week in royal icing, it's different - we would want our icing right and we'd give (suppliers) a specification of how we want our icing."

A spokesman for Tate & Lyle Sugars said the original recipe would still be available to a small number of professional bakers. "We continue to fulfil orders of icing sugar with E341 anti-caking agent to a small number of our manufacturing customers in circumstances where their compliance with ingredient labelling requirements would make a mid-contract ingredient change extremely difficult."

He added that the decision to use maize starch was taken after "both in-house and external testing showed that maize starch greatly reduces the possibility of caking when icing sugar has been stored in less than ideal conditions".

It confirmed that they had carried out tests after the new recipe was introduced. "The results indicated no detrimental performance issues as a result of the change."


A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on August 12, 2015, with the headline 'No intricate icing on the cake with sugar recipe change'. Subscribe