SINGAPORE - (THE NEW PAPER) After a decade at its Syed Alwi Road outlet, Copper Chimney has a new menu and a new chef, Gyanesh Dass.
It's about time too, as Little India is crowded with Indian eateries.
On Syed Alwi Road alone, the choices are overwhelming, where every sort of budget is covered.
Copper Chimney's way of standing out is offering Indian Chinese food, also known as Chindian, alongside North Indian dishes.
I ate there twice (once invited, once unannounced) and both times, I gravitated towards the North Indian selections.
Perhaps Chindian is not a fascinating concept for someone who has had Chinese food all his life.
And be sure to order the salty lassi (yogurt-based drink) there.
It's an acquired taste but I found it seductively earthy.
If you want a dish with heat, the salt and pepper baby corn ($9) will hit the spot. The peppers seem extra fiery here, so have your lassi ready.
A typically Chindian dish is the gobi Manchurian ($9). The cauliflower florets are fried well, but it's the sauce that works for me. It's slightly salty, with a touch of heat.
The daal tadka ($8) is one of my favourites at Copper Chimney. Soulful is the only word I can think of to describe how it felt going down my throat.
The Malai Chicken Tikka ($12) is a competent dish but not particularly exciting. The two times I ate this, the chicken was beautifully moist though.
The robust mutton Roganjosh ($12) is a must. Eat it with a naan ($3) because it might be too salty on its own.
100 Syed Alwi Road
Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday, 11.30am to midnight Friday and Saturday, 11.30am to 1am
This article was first published on September 2, 2015.
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