Michelin drops Jiro sushi restaurant from Tokyo guide

Sukiyabashi Jiro, run by Jiro Ono (left), is immortalised in the 2011 documentary Jiro Dreams Of Sushi. The 10-seater sushi bar has earned three Michelin stars every year since 2007. PHOTO: PREFERRED CONTENT

TOKYO • A Tokyo sushi restaurant, where former American president Barack Obama is said to have enjoyed the best sushi of his life, has been dropped from the latest Michelin gourmet guide after it stopped accepting reservations from the public.

Sukiyabashi Jiro, immortalised in the 2011 documentary Jiro Dreams Of Sushi, has earned three Michelin stars every year since 2007 and is considered to dish up some of the world's greatest delicacies.

But the restaurant - where the chef's selection starts at 40,000 yen (S$500) - is glaringly absent from the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2020 when it was unveiled to the media on Tuesday.

"We recognise Sukiyabashi Jiro does not accept reservations from the general public, which makes it out of our scope," said a spokesman for the Japanese branch of Michelin.

"It was not true to say the restaurant lost stars but it is not subject to coverage in our guide," she added.

"Michelin's policy is to introduce restaurants where everybody can go to eat."

To win a coveted seat at the restaurant, you either need to be a regular customer, have special connections or go through the concierge of a top hotel.

On its website, Sukiyabashi Jiro indicated that it is "currently experiencing difficulties in accepting reservations" and apologises for "any inconvenience to our valued customers". "Unfortunately, as our restaurant can seat only up to 10 guests at a time, this situation is likely to continue," it noted.

The restaurant is run by sushi maestro Jiro Ono, who is well into his 90s and is helped by his eldest son Yoshikazu.

Another branch, run by his younger son and located in the modern Roppongi Hills complex, kept its two stars as it accepts public reservations.

The main, basement restaurant opened its doors in 1965 and has remained in an ageing commercial building in a corner of the Ginza district ever since.

When then US president Obama travelled to Tokyo in 2014, he joined a long list of Ono's celebrity guests, including French master chef Joel Robuchon as well as Hollywood stars Hugh Jackman and Katy Perry.

As Mr Obama and Japan's Prime Minister Shinzo Abe thrashed out details in trade talks, Ono senior served them his own selection of 20 pieces as he does to every diner, according to son Yoshikazu.

Mr Obama "seemed to like chu-toro (medium fatty tuna) very much because he winked when he ate it", he added.

"He said three times: 'This is the best sushi I've ever had in my life.'"

AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on November 28, 2019, with the headline Michelin drops Jiro sushi restaurant from Tokyo guide. Subscribe