Moules-frites, a dish of mussels accompanied by fries, originated in Belgium, but is equally popular in France.
I fell in love with the dish on my first trip to Paris in the 1980s, when it provided me with a light, delicious and relatively affordable lunch on many days.
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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on January 12, 2020, with the headline Mad about mussels. Subscribe