While traditions have their place in the kitchen, I am all for innovation too. How else do new dishes get created if one does not try to break away from the same old, same old?
But being innovative is not to be gimmicky, though there is sometimes a very fine line between the two.
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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on January 06, 2019, with the headline Restaurant review: Creative hits and misses at 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung. Subscribe