SINGAPORE - (THE NEW PAPER) I ordered the bone marrow crostini ($13 based on the server's recommendation but listening to him was a mistake. The tiny bits of marrow present were so salty I felt I was being preserved.

When my favourite dish in a grill restaurant is poutine ($8), that is a little sad. But this is a nice version of the dish. The fries are soaked in a beef glaze with a dusting of cheese. Not the best but still good.My first impression of Charcoal Pit, after trekking around Tanjong Pagar to look for it, was that of delight. You go up to the roof of an old office building by riding a lift with a hilarious warning sign and fairy lights greet you in the alfresco area.

The food, though, was less delightful. It is a simple menu of grilled items. There is nothing fancy about it. This unpretentious attitude is great if the food fits you, but I found it inconsistent. On my invited visit, it was great. When I returned unannounced, it felt canteen-grade.

Self-reliance is also a concept here: You pour your own water, order at the counter and head back there to make your payment. Service is also not something you should expect. When I asked for recommendations, I received a chuckle instead. So go without expectations.

The smoked wings ($15) are competent but not spectacular. The dipping sauce is spicy, which adds to the dish.

When I first ate the baby back ribs (from $22), I was taken by the smokey tones. When I returned, the ribs were tough. It was still smokey but had no flavours.

When my favourite dish in a grill restaurant is poutine ($8), that is a little sad. But this is a nice version of the dish. The fries are soaked in a beef glaze with a dusting of cheese. Not the best but still good.

The tender pork cheek ($23) fared better. It is first cooked sous vide overnight, then grilled.