From the main course selection, I am charmed by a risotto dish described as Toasted Seeds, Coffee Powder, Blueberries, Bottarga, Year Old Aged Rice. It is a pretty dish, topped with a multi-coloured layer of seeds and shaved bottarga that looks like one of those patterns for colour blindness tests.
Dig your spork (a spoon and fork hybrid designed by Oldani) right to the bottom for a scoop of all the ingredients and marvel as the flavour profile blossoms in your mouth.
My dessert of Lemon Curd, Meringue, Lettuce Ice-cream And Cocoa Crumble is notable for the lettuce ice cream, which is a lot more palatable than it sounds. Vegetable haters may disagree, but I find it very refreshing and a great palate cleanser.
The lemon curd and meringue are safe flavours, but the way the dollops of white meringue are placed like thorns on the ball of bright yellow curd makes for a pretty picture.
For my dinner, what makes the most impression is the starter, an Oldani signature dish described as Caramelised Onion, 20 Months Aged Grana Padano, served hot and cold.
It's an onion tart with a lovely gooey crust topped by a scoop of grana padano cheese ice cream. So it is not just hot and cold, but also sweet and savoury. The combination is yummy and makes an impact.
The rest of the meal is good and the cooking certainly competent, but the dishes fall short of jumping at you or leaving an imprint in your memory bank.
Dishes such as Beef Cheek, Red Wine Reduction, Trout Pearls or House Apicius Blend, Confit Duck Leg, Honey are nice - do not get me wrong - but you get the feeling of having eaten something similar before.
So I enjoy my lunch more than my dinner. Which is wonderful, since I pay about $100 less too.
• Follow Wong Ah Yoke on Twitter @STahyoke and on Instagram @wongahyoke
• The Sunday Times paid for its meals at the eateries reviewed here.
For more reviews by Wong Ah Yoke, go to http://str.sg/4MbE.