A la carte prices for the kushikatsu range from $2 for vegetables to $8 for items such as scallop or foie gras.
Compared with Han, which charged $180 for 15 sticks and did not take a la carte orders, Panko's prices are a steal. The trade-off is that the ingredients are not as premium.
Panko helps you to overlook that in a creative manner. Except for vegetables, the kushikatsu items are matched with toppings or heavy sauces, making it less important to have top-grade ingredients.
In fact, the dips and salt on the table go untouched at my dinner. A couple of sticks may need a few drops of lemon juice, but even that is optional.
That is because you would not want to mess with combinations of flavours such as Squid With Ink Sauce ($3).
Pieces of springy squid are covered in a coat of golden crumbs and topped with a thick smear of inky sauce and yellow chrysanthemum petals.
It is a bit difficult to bite through unless your teeth land exactly in the gap between the two pieces of squid, but that is a small matter. It tastes good.
So does the Komochi Konbu With Sea Urchin ($8). The foamy sea urchin sauce tastes a bit weak, but there are also pieces of fresh uni on the kushikatsu. And I love the super crunchy texture of komochi konbu or herring roe on kelp.
Pork Belly With Whole Grain Mustard ($3) is also good, with the bite of the mustard cutting through the fatty meat.
The Japanese Oyster With Tartar ($8) is where you can brighten up the flavours with a squeeze of lemon. The oyster is a particularly fat one and cooked lightly enough to stay tender and juicy.
Only two kushikatsu items that I try disappoint. I am not crazy about the Mochi Bacon With Mentai Mayo ($5) because the mochi is too hard to be a good match for the crispy crumbs. And the Wagyu Beef With Oroshi Ponzu Ichimi ($6) has a softness that seems to come more from slow-cooking than from well-marbled meat.
The biggest disappointment, though, is the Kaisen Salad ($38), a mixed salad with cubes of sashimi that is let down by bland-tasting fish and a ponzu-based dressing that is too mild.
If all you want is a palate cleanser to balance the deep-fried items, I would say the Seasonal Stick Salad ($12) is a better choice.
It may comprise just plain raw vegetables, but at least it is much cheaper.
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•The Sunday Times paid for its meals at the eateries reviewed here.