Cheap & Good

Cheap & Good: Piping hot dishes made to order at mobster-themed The Don Pizza & Past

Al Capone laksa pasta and Mickey That Pesto pizza at The Don Pizza & Pasta at foodcourt Fomo.
Al Capone laksa pasta and Mickey That Pesto pizza at The Don Pizza & Pasta at foodcourt Fomo.ST PHOTO: ANJALI RAGURAMAN

Revenge may be a dish "best served cold", according to The Godfather's Don Vito Corleone, but rest assured, pasta and pizza are served piping hot and made to order at mobster-themed The Don Pizza & Pasta.

The Arab Street area continues to surprise and delight with diverse food options, this time with solid pizza and pasta offerings at newly opened foodcourt Fomo, which is home to The Don.

Taking over the space formerly occupied by Middle Eastern joint Nabins, hipster foodcourt Fomo comes complete with wooden furniture, hanging plants and an Instagram-friendly garden courtyard area with a swing.

But don't let that distract you from the unexpected food options inside, such as good quality pizza and pasta.

Don't let the names of the dishes - which reference Italian-American mob bosses and The Godfather movies - distract you from the dishes either.

The foodcourt only houses stalls that offer options without pork or lard, but that has not limited the dishes on offer too much at The Don, which includes the signature Al Capone laksa pasta.

The linguine is cooked al dente and coated in the thick, but never cloying sauce and generously studded with prawns, fish cake and tau pok. The hearty and satisfying dish is topped with fried curry leaves and a hard-boiled egg.

It might be named after the American mobster, but the only intimidating thing about it was the slightly spicy kick of the laksa sauce.

Other pasta options, which start at $7.90 for aglio olio (or The Drive-By as it is called on the menu), include the rigatoni and duck pasta (Mr Corleone, $11.90) and a beef penne dish (Frank Costello, $11.90).

You can also choose from spaghetti, penne, linguine or rigatoni for your pasta.

There are even add-on options such as mushroom, chicken and beef ($3 each) or, if you are feeling indulgent, prawn, duck and soft shell crab ($4 each) or foie gras ($7).

But the standout for me is a 10-inch pizza called Mickey That Pesto ($14.90), topped with basil pesto, garlic, mushrooms, mozzarella, pine nuts and a barely noticeable spritz of truffle oil - not that it needed that last flourish.

For a foodcourt pizza, the crust is light and pleasantly chewy, as if it is made with freshly made dough instead of a store-bought frozen base. The toppings are not excessive either, which means the pizza never goes soggy, even after sitting out there for a while.

All pizzas are priced at $14.90, with variations such as a more traditional margherita with tomata, basil and mozzarella (called the Salvatore) and the left-field Oh My Guac that comes with avocado, turkey, corn, chilli, tomato and red pepper.

A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on December 17, 2017, with the headline 'Al Capone's spicy kick'. Print Edition | Subscribe