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In Quest Of: Looking mountain gorillas in the eye and staying in a luxury lodge in Rwanda

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Hop, a juvenile silverback from the Umubano family of gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda.

Hop, a juvenile silverback from the Umubano family of gorillas, in Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda.

PHOTO: LYDIA VASKO

Lydia Vasko

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KIGALI, Rwanda – Every life has some pinch-me moments. This trip is one of mine.

I arrive in Rwanda’s capital, Kigali, early one October morning in 2019. The sky is hazy and grey, the air humid and cool.

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