LVMH picks Sarah Burton as new designer for its Givenchy brand

PARIS – French luxury house Givenchy named British fashion designer Sarah Burton its new creative director, as its parent LVMH seeks to revive the label best known for dressing British actress Audrey Hepburn in the Hollywood classic, Breakfast At Tiffany’s (1961).

Burton, who up until 2023 was the designer at Alexander McQueen, a Kering label, takes over immediately and will present her first collection in March, Givenchy said in a statement on Sept 9. She will oversee both menswear and womenswear.

The appointment is an attempt to revitalise a brand that has failed to enjoy the same success as other LVMH labels such as Celine or Loewe. Her appointment comes after Mr Alessandro Valenti – previously in charge of Europe, Middle East and Africa at Louis Vuitton, LVMH’s biggest brand – was named the chief executive of Givenchy in July.  

“Her unique vision and approach to fashion will be invaluable to this iconic maison, known for its audacity and haute couture,” Mr Sidney Toledano, chairman of Givenchy, said in the statement.

Givenchy’s former designer, Matthew Williams, lasted slightly more than four years in that role, with no standout product released during his tenure.

Givenchy’s glory days date back to the 1960s. In Breakfast At Tiffany’s, a movie adapted from a Truman Capote novella of the same name, Hepburn wore a long black dress designed by Hubert de Givenchy, launching his name in the circles of high fashion.

But its star has faded in recent years. Under Williams, Givenchy unveiled ready-to-wear collections at Paris Fashion Week but did not take part in its haute couture week, unlike Christian Dior – another LVMH label – or Chanel.

Presenting during haute couture week tends to bring more cachet and exclusivity to brands over time. The last Givenchy haute couture collection was unveiled under Williams’ predecessor, Clare Waight Keller.

LVMH does not break down performance by labels, but Givenchy is not part of the top 10 brands, according to estimates by HSBC.

Burton comes to Givenchy after a long stint at McQueen. She was named creative director of McQueen in 2010, a few months after its founder Lee Alexander McQueen died at the age of 40. She had previously spent 14 years working by his side.

Under Burton, who graduated from Central Saint Martins, McQueen gained worldwide recognition when in 2011, Kate Middleton decided to wear the designer’s floor-length ivory dress with lace detailing as her wedding gown when she married Britain’s Prince William.

Beyond that, under Burton, the brand became known for its chic and asymmetrically tailored suits.

WWD first reported Burton’s nomination at Givenchy. Bloomberg