London kicks off Fashion Week, dedicated to late Vivienne Westwood
Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox
Models presenting creations for London-based Turkish designer Bora Aksu at London Fashion Week on Feb 17.
PHOTO: AFP
LONDON – London Fashion Week kicked off last Friday, with organisers dedicating the five-day event to the late designer Vivienne Westwood, who died in December.
Westwood, who died aged 81, was one of British fashion’s biggest names. She rose to fame dressing the Sex Pistols, becoming synonymous with 1970s punk rock and was known for her rebellious designs.
An avid campaigner, she used her runways to address issues she felt strongly about: climate change, pollution and her support for WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange.
“She is the embodiment of our extraordinary industry,” British Fashion Council (BFC) chair David Pemsel told London’s Evening Standard newspaper.
“It is only right and appropriate that we dedicate the entire week to her. We must celebrate her contribution as she was extraordinary and unique.”
(Clockwise from top left) Designer Paul Smith, model Kate Moss, actress Helena Bonham Carter and Spice Girl-turned-designer Victoria Beckham at the memorial service for Vivienne Westwood.
On Thursday, celebrities and fashionistas such as designer Paul Smith, actress Helena Bonham Carter, model Kate Moss and Spice Girl-turned-designer Victoria Beckham gathered at London’s Southwark Cathedral for a memorial service for Westwood.
“She set such a high standard and she was fun to work with,” designer Paul Costelloe said at his Friday morning show. “London is empty because she is gone.”
Costelloe turned to James Joyce’s novel Ulysses for his collection featuring smart knitwear in browns, greys and greens as well as dresses adorned with floral prints in gold and pink hues.
The 77-year-old said the line reflected “the west coast of Ireland – very romantic, very soft, very rich in colours”.
Designer Paul Costelloe turned to James Joyce’s novel Ulysses for his collection.
London-based Turkish designer Bora Aksu opted for a mainly black and white line, inspired by Norwegian painter Edvard Munch and fictional character Wednesday Addams, and which celebrated outcasts.
“They didn’t even try to fit into society, they didn’t try to change themselves,” said Aksu, adding the choice of black also took on a new meaning.
“With the recent... earthquake (in Turkey and Syria), black actually felt right in the sense of a silent grieving in a way. Even though it wasn’t my intention at the beginning, it was easier to transform it into that kind of muted colour palette.”
Aksu held a minute’s silence for the victims of the Feb 6 earthquake that has killed more than 43,000 people.
His models wore black and white sheer dresses with bows, lace, frills and polka dots. There were crochet shawls and bonnets, trouser suits with trails. Dabs of colour came in pastel blue and pink dresses with black trims.
Designer Bora Aksu opted for a mainly black and white line, inspired by Norwegian painter Edvard Munch and fictional character Wednesday Addams, and which celebrated outcasts.
Highlights this season include designer Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, while a BFC initiative with Ukraine Fashion Week will see three Ukrainian designers presenting their creations.
“Fashion needs to be continually evaluating what it’s giving back,” said Natasha Bird, Elle UK’s executive editor (digital).
“Showcasing talent that might help the initiative of improving a country post-crisis or while enduring a crisis is a great way to kind of make sure that fashion has some worth and some value beyond just the business of making clothes.” REUTERS

