ST×NLB Cross-References: Pineapple-rolling exclamation

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Somehow, we don’t have a single photo in our archive depicting the pineapple-rolling ritual that Chinese people often perform when entering a new home. Please imagine this pineapple being rolled across the floor.

Somehow, we don’t have a single photo in our archive depicting the pineapple-rolling ritual that Chinese people often perform when entering a new home. Please imagine this pineapple being rolled across the floor.

PHOTO: ST FILE

Sasha Tan

SINGAPORE — This week’s ST×NLB Crossword was constructed by Ong Hui Ying from the National Library Board, who is part of a team of 40 volunteers from both organisations. Here’s her message to solvers:

I believe crosswords are an amalgamation of the setter’s passions, loves and idiosyncrasies. Through the clues I’ve set, I hope this puzzle gives you insight into the little things that bring me joy and that, in playing, you get to experience that happiness yourself.

With a veritable smorgasbord of gastronomic entries in the mix this week, the puzzle reads almost like an all-day menu. We hope you didn’t get too hungry puzzling your way through it.

We start with breakfast. If, like me, you do your crosswords first thing in the morning with a cuppa close at hand, you may find that the [Alertness-boosting alkaloid] CAFFEINE (9A) also provides a little extra brainpower to crack those tougher clues.

Caffeine junkies may also be interested to know that local kopi is typically brewed using Robusta coffee beans, which can contain roughly twice as much caffeine as the Arabica beans more commonly found in Western-style cafes. As a result, kopi often provides a stronger kick than typical cafe options. The caffeine in any particular cup also depends on how it is prepared, of course, and on especially sluggish mornings, one can always opt for kopi gao (strong) or kopi di lo (extra thick).

To accompany that morning brew, CEREAL (4D), which comprises [Many a Kellogg’s offering], is a convenient option. The multinational brand is responsible for such familiar offerings as Froot Loops, Frosties and Coco Pops. And although cereal has a global reputation as breakfast food, many local zi char restaurants also serve up heaps of crisp, buttery Nestum flakes over succulent, deep-fried prawns. If one orders a portion of coffee pork ribs as well, dinner can very much end up feeling like an echo of breakfast.

For something a little more gourmet, a charcuterie board provides plenty to savour. Its staple COLD CUTS (13A) are typically accompanied by an assortment of cheeses, crackers and fruit. In particularly decadent arrangements, one may even find these elements infused with our next trendy premium ingredient.

TRUFFLES (23A), the [Fragrant fungi] prized for their distinctive aroma and intensely savoury flavour, seem to have exploded in popularity over the past decade or so. One could argue that the peak popularity of flavour fads like truffles, mala and salted egg yolk can be estimated from when McDonald’s decided to turn them into McShaker Fries flavours – the McShaker Point, if you will.

McDonald's truffle flavoured fries which comes with a packet of truffle flavoured seasoning.

In 2015, McDonald's introduced truffle flavoured fries which came with a packet of truffle flavoured seasoning.

PHOTO: ST FILE

For truffles, the McShaker Point occurred in 2015; that same year, local food blogger Daniel Food Diary posted a round-up of truffle dishes at local eateries which included truffle waffles, truffle xiao long bao and even truffle wonton mee – rather a far cry from their haute cuisine origins.

With a distinctive flavour profile of its own, WASABI (1D) is the [Sushi sidekick with a kick]. This green garnish caused quite a hubbub among our crossword play-testers over how it ought to be clued. Some objected to the original phrasing of the clue which characterised it as “pungent”, noting that it often has a mild, clean smell despite its sharp taste and that calling it pungent felt unintuitive to them. Others raised the objection that genuine grated wasabi also has quite a mild flavour profile and that the sharpness typically ascribed to wasabi is actually more characteristic of imitation wasabi made from horseradish. 

An alternative descriptor “spicy” proved no less controversial given that wasabi does not contain capsaicin, the compound responsible for the characteristic burn of chilli peppers. Hence, various alternatives – including “piquant”, “sharp”, “nose-stinging” and “eye-watering” – were offered instead. In the end, we decided to avoid that can of worms altogether.

The grid’s other nod to Japanese cuisine, thankfully, caused less of a stir. Hotpot fans will recognise BEEF (2D) as [Shabu-shabu meat, often], sliced thinly so that it cooks after only a brief swish through simmering broth.

In international crossword outlets like the New York Times, the word is also frequently clued with reference to its informal meaning of a grudge, feud or conflict – as in, the working group had a bit of a beef over how to describe wasabi.

With its abundance of fresh meat and green vegetables, shabu-shabu might also appeal to someone following a DIET (22A) such as [Keto or paleo, say]. A ketogenic diet is high in fat and very low in carbohydrates, encouraging the body to burn fat rather than glucose for energy. The paleo diet, meanwhile, favours whole foods thought to resemble those available before the development of agriculture.

Finally, our culinary adventure concludes with a NIGHTCAP (5D), or [Bedtime beverage, often boozy]. The drink takes its name from the cloth cap once commonly worn to bed, both to provide warmth and help one to fall asleep. Although the term traditionally refers to an alcoholic drink and is still commonly used in that sense, it can also describe a soothing non-alcoholic beverage before bed, such as milk or Milo. 

From the first cup of coffee in the morning to the final drink at night, this week’s grid has the day well catered for. Here are a few more notable entries:

Local landmarks such as Merlion Park and the National Gallery shrouded in haze in September 2015.

Local landmarks such as Merlion Park and the National Gallery shrouded in haze in September 2015.

PHOTO: LIANHE ZAOBAO FILE

7A. HAZE is the [Reason to keep an eye on the PSI]. Many solvers will remember the severe haze season of 2015, when smoke from forest and plantation fires in Indonesia blanketed Singapore. At its most severe, the 24-hour Pollutant Standards Index hovered in “Very Unhealthy” range over two days, prompting the unprecedented closure of schools on Sept 25, 2015.

10A. The pineapple-rolling exclamation is “HUAT ah!” For many Chinese families moving into a new home, the ritual of rolling a pineapple through the front door while calling out the auspicious phrase is thought to usher in prosperity. As one family learnt earlier this year, however, the fruit should not be left sitting for too long. After leaving the pineapple on the floor for three days, the family returned to find that its acidic juices had left a large mark on the marble flooring.

16A. EPHEMERA is the collective term for [Transient things, such as ticket stubs]. It encompasses everyday material intended for short-term use, such as postcards, pamphlets, menus and ticket stubs, which can become collectibles and valuable records of the past precisely because few people think to preserve them. As part of its role as a national memory institution, the National Library collects a wide variety of ephemera, including election brochures, theatre playbills and travel advertisements. Some examples can be found in this account of travel ephemera by Yashodha Nadarajan, who is part of the National Library’s Donors team.

25A. A BEDSHEET is a piece of [Fabric for a ghost costume, perhaps]. Many a Halloween trick-or-treater has been saved by this economical yet suitably spooky option – simply find a sheet well past its prime, cut two eye-holes, drape and get haunting.

3D. The ZODIAC cycle starts with Aries, or the Rat, depending on which system one is referring to. In Western astrology, Aries begins the cycle of 12 signs, while the Rat leads the 12-year sequence of animals in the Chinese zodiac.

Book recommendations

Let the week’s clues inspire your next read, courtesy of NLB. Follow the links to borrow.

6D. “When you learn something new, you quickly REDACT your past so you can feel the comfort of always being right.” – You Are Not So Smart by David McRaney

12D. “‘Only the GREATEST illusionist of his generation,’ Chandresh says. ‘Used to book him whenever I could get my hands on him, years ago now. Absolutely brilliant, completely mesmerised every audience. Never seen anyone to match him, never.’” – The Night Circus by Erin Morgenstern

21D. “You can’t know what you want until you know what you might want, so you are going to have to generate a lot of ideas and possibilities. Accept the problem. Get stuck. Get over it, and IDEATE, ideate, ideate!” – Designing Your Life: Build A Life That Works For You by Bill Burnett

Across

7. Reason to keep an eye on the PSI (4): HAZE

8. Comedian’s quick bit (3-5): ONE-LINER

9. Alertness-boosting alkaloid (8): CAFFEINE

10. “____ ah!” (pineapple-rolling exclamation) (4): HUAT

11. Google alternative (4): BING

13. Charcuterie board staples (4,4): COLD CUTS

16. Transient things, such as ticket stubs (8): EPHEMERA

20. Singapore Grand ____ (noisy night-time event) (4): PRIX

22. Paleo or keto, say (4): DIET

23. Fragrant fungi (8): TRUFFLES

25. Fabric for a ghost costume, perhaps (8): BEDSHEET

26. Bulb-circling bug (4): MOTH

Down

1. Sushi sidekick with a kick (6): WASABI

2. Shabu-shabu meat, often (4): BEEF

3. It starts with Aries, or the Rat (6): ZODIAC

4. Many a Kellogg’s offering (6): CEREAL

5. Bedtime beverage, often boozy (8): NIGHTCAP

6. Black out with a marker, perhaps (6): REDACT

11. “Ta ta” (3): BYE

12. ________ of all time (8): GREATEST

14. Rower’s blade (3): OAR

15. Number of Henry VIII’s wives, or a musical about them (3): SIX

17. Embarrassed, locally (6): PAISEH

18. High regard (6): ESTEEM

19. Grown-ups (6): ADULTS

21. Brainstorm (6): IDEATE

24. The ____ (Lady Gaga song about chasing celebrity status) (4): FAME

If you have any feedback, feel free to write to us at stgames@sph.com.sg. See you next week!

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