Owner of popular wonton noodle stall at former National Library building dies at 94

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Madam Leong Yuet Meng at her Nam Seng Noodles & Fried Rice stall at Far East Square in January 2019.

Madam Leong Yuet Meng at her stall at Far East Square in January 2019.

PHOTO: ST FILE

SINGAPORE – The owner of the popular and longstanding Nam Seng Noodle House hawker stall, Madam Leong Yuet Meng, died at age 94 on Feb 7.

In a Facebook post the same day, the stall said Madam Leong – known affectionately to customers as Ah Po or granny – had died, and put up a tribute to her.

It said: “She has fed us her wonton mee with warmth, love and fiery personality.

“She will be dearly missed. Let us celebrate her life.”

Madam Leong, who is believed to be one of Singapore’s oldest hawkers, first opened her stall in 1958 at the old National Library canteen in Stamford Road. In 1962, she named the business Nam Seng, and sold wonton noodles and other dishes.

The stall was popular with patrons for more than 40 years before the library building was demolished in 2004.

In the course of running her stall, she trained about five people in the art of dishing up the noodles – usually served with char siew or roast pork, wonton and vegetables. All of them retired before her.

Madam Leong, who mostly spoke Cantonese, later moved the stall to Far East Square.

Speaking to The Straits Times in 2019, Madam Leong, who was 90 at the time, said she was looking to franchise her business.

She said: “I have endurance and patience, that’s why I can last for so long. Even if I have no customers, I stand here and get customers. I’ve spent more than 50 years to build the brand, and can’t bear to leave the business.”

In 2020, Nam Seng closed shop amid the Covid-19 pandemic.

In April 2022, Madam Leong reopened for business, this time in a coffee shop called Che Kitchen in Toa Payoh North.

A report by Chinese daily Lianhe Zaobao said customers flocked to the stall to snap up bowls of hot noodles, and take a photo with Madam Leong.

Madam Leong’s grandson Bryant Tang, speaking to The Straits Times on Feb 9, said she was “always the life of the party”. He added that she was also full of infectious energy, laughter and generosity.

He said: “I have heard many stories and met numerous customers who have eaten her wonton noodles first when they were children, and later brought their own kids to the stall.”

One of his fondest memories of Madam Leong was when his family went for a weekend trip to Bangkok in 2018.

Madam Leong was rushing to head back home to Singapore, and Mr Tang asked her what the hurry was, and if they could stay on in the Thai capital for a few more days.

His grandmother would not hear of it.

“No, people are going back to work on Monday, and they need to eat. I need to feed them,” she said.

Mr Tang, 46, said it has been a privilege to have had Madam Leong as a grandmother, and he hoped that she finds peace as the family celebrates her legacy.

He said: “We are very proud of what she has achieved.”

The Nam Seng stall has now been handed over to him, he added.

“I am planning to revive it, and keep Grandma’s legacy alive.“

Madam Leong has three sons, three grandchildren and two great-grandchildren.

The Feb 7 Facebook post on Madam Leong’s death drew comments from many patrons, who remembered not just her food, but also her kindness and friendship.

One Facebook user called Chris Chen said in his post: “I would always drop by, and Ah Po and I would chit-chat about the good old days. Sleep well, Ah Po. I’ll miss you.”

Madam Leong, who is believed to be one of Singapore’s oldest hawkers, first opened her stall in 1958 at the old National Library canteen in Stamford Road, although some accounts say it started in 1962.  

Another user, Vincent Ooi, said: “Thank you very much for your delicious wonton and noodles. It kept me company during lunches with friends, and even solo lunches at the start of my work life here in Singapore.”

On the Hawkers United – Dabao 2020 Facebook page, a post which paid tribute to Madam Leong and her legacy garnered more than 1,000 reactions in about three hours.

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