Less salt, full-on flavours: Parkway East Hospital refreshes patient menu with Peranakan dishes

SINGAPORE – At Parkway East Hospital, curry kapitan is served in a ceramic bowl with a floral motif, a presentation one would expect at a Peranakan restaurant rather than a hospital.

It is part of the 138-bed private hospital’s Peranakan-themed refresh, which pays tribute to its location in Joo Chiat. It starts with a welcome drink for patients called Violet Bliss, made with butterfly pea syrup and lemon cordial. There is also a pandan-and-coconut lobby scent which evokes kueh salat and a Peranakan-inspired mural that will soon grace the wall.

Since April, patients on regular diets have been able to order dishes such as Curry Kapitan, Udang Lemak Nenas (pineapple prawn curry) and Baba Nonya Fried Rice from the hospital’s halal-certified kitchen.

Chief executive Ivan Khor, 46, says the Peranakan concept draws on the hospital’s 84-year history in the Katong-Joo Chiat area. Beyond visual flourishes, the menu is intended to bring “warmth and variety” to patients during recovery and make the clinical environment more welcoming.

These support the hospital’s “feels like home” brand promise, he adds, bringing together culture, familiarity and hospitality so patients feel cared for like family.

For executive chef Roslan Abbas, 49, the menu is inspired by his memories growing up in Pulasan Road, off Koon Seng Road, among Malay, Chinese and Peranakan neighbours who exchanged food during festivals.

His paternal grandmother learnt Peranakan cooking from her neighbours, while his mother worked for Peranakan families and taught him to make curry kapitan when he was about nine years old. She still sells halal bak chang and Nonya kueh from her home.

The new Peranakan dishes, which make up 10 per cent of the menu, are based on recipes he learnt from his mother. Preparing them takes about 30 per cent more work than the hospital’s regular fare, such as Braised Beef Cheek and Prawn Cannelloni.

Rempah (spice paste) is made from scratch, with a 5kg batch of curry kapitan paste taking up to three hours to cook over low heat.

“The key is not to take shortcuts with the rempah,” he says. “That is the backbone of the dish.”

Preparing the spice pastes in-house also allows the kitchen to control the freshness and quality of the ingredients, without added preservatives.

His curry kapitan uses low-fat coconut cream and about 20 per cent less oil and salt. More candlenuts and roasted coriander seeds provide nuttiness and fragrance.

The Baba Nonya fried rice is inspired by nasi ulam, one of Roslan’s childhood favourites. As raw food is unsuitable for hospital service, the herbs are tossed briefly through the hot rice after the heat is turned off.

He uses basmati rice with a low glycaemic index, which causes a slower rise in blood sugar than regular white rice. Butterfly pea flowers give part of the rice its blue hue.

The kitchen prepares an average of 10 to 12 Peranakan meals a day in small batches.

Roslan also chose floral crockery to enhance the patients’ dining experience. He says the pieces are Peranakan-inspired rather than authentic. Locally available pieces proved too expensive, so the hospital sourced similar tableware from China. Tray liners bearing Nonya motifs are planned next.

“The main point is to provide comfort to patients during their stay here,” he says.

Parkway East Hospital’s senior dietitian Jennifer Shim, 39, says Peranakan food can be healthy, depending on how it is prepared and portion size.

While coconut cream, belacan and oil can make dishes higher in fat, sodium and calories, the cuisine also uses fresh herbs, spices, seafood and vegetables that provide fibre and lean protein, she says.

Reducing coconut cream, moderating oil and adding more vegetables can allow Peranakan dishes to be enjoyed as part of a balanced diet.

Herbs, spices and aromatics such as lemongrass, turmeric and ginger flower can enhance fragrance and flavour even when less coconut milk is used, she adds.

The recipes were developed by Roslan with cultural authenticity in mind, then assessed by the dietetics team and classified for patients without specific dietary restrictions.

Shim says coconut-rich dishes are best enjoyed occasionally rather than daily. Diners can also limit the amount of gravy spooned over their rice. She adds: “The recipes can still fit into healthy eating patterns when paired with vegetables and portion control.”