As we cross the main bridge at Pont du Mont-Blanc, the expanse of Lake Geneva envelopes us, its end now infinite, blotted out by low- hanging fog. Somewhere beyond awaits tomorrow's excursion.
The next day starts early with some all-inclusive champagne over breakfast. I have planned a day in the nearby mountains of Fribourg, where more gourmand escapades are said to exist.
The rail line hugs the lakeshore as we travel west through Vaud. The lake is like a mill pond, a handful of yachts cut noiselessly through the azure water. Just out of the village city of Lausanne, we spot the undulating terraces of Lavaux (www.lavaux.com), home to some of Europe's oldest grape vines and a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Peppered across this more than 20km stretch of vines are small cellar doors where you can buy direct from the winemaker. There are also a number of easy hikes that traverse the many terraces.
We make a brief stop at Montreux and transfer to Le Train du Fromage (www.goldenpass.ch/en), a panoramic rail service that travels on Fridays and weekends from December to April. Aptly, we are served local wine and cheese as we make the steep ascent above Montreux and into the region of Gruyeres.
Our train stops at the blink- and-you-will-miss-it snow-covered village of Chateau-d'Oex.
After a short stroll with the rest of our cheese-loving party, we arrive at Restaurant Le Chalet for lunch. We can also make cheese here.
We get a prime seat near the cheesemonger - dressed in traditional Swiss lederhosen - as he prepares the demonstration. He pours around 200 litres of fresh milk into a large copper cauldron and swings it across the fire.
"Qui veut aider?" he asks (meaning, "who wants to help?") and I eagerly jump up and join him, stirring the milk in a constant figure of eight with a large wooden paddle till it reaches an exact 32 deg C. We then add rennet to help start the fermentation process.
While the cauldron simmers, our waitress prepares the moitie- moitie (half-half) fondue of organic Chalet and l'Etivaz cheeses. Like New Zealand and Australia with pavlova, there is an ongoing battle between France and Switzerland as to who can claim origin rights to this simple meal of melted alpine cheese, mixed with white wine, Kirsch, flour, garlic and pepper, served with bread.
As we begin dipping in, our waitress cheekily cautions us that if we lose a piece of bread from our fork, we'd need to forfeit an item of clothing. I pity diners with a penchant for losing things in this weather. We tactfully keep every piece of bread under our control.
Alongside, we enjoy a bottle of crisp, fruity Lavaux Chasselas (21 Swiss francs). The high acidity balances out the rich fondue. A match made in mountain heaven.
As we mop up the last of our fondue, the cheesemaker scoops up the ochre-coloured cheese granules in a muslin cloth. The load, weighing around 10kg, is then swiftly transferred to a mould and pressed before ageing. In five months, this round of cheese will form part of someone's fondue lunch.
With the fragrant, nutty aroma of cheese still wafting about us, we decide on a slight detour on our way back to Geneva.
Poised on the top of a rocky hill, the mediaeval village of Gruyeres is the saintly home of this world- renowned white cheese. The German-esque village, complete with a castle, contains a number of buildings dating back more than 400 years. It is like we have stepped into a Grimm's fairy tale.
Entering the castle courtyard, the last thing you would expect to find is an extra-terrestrial xenomorph, but this little village is the location of the H.R. Giger's Alien Bar and Museum (www.hrgiger.com/barmuseum). It was opened in homage to the late Swiss-German artist who designed the horrific acid-spitting alien from the 1979 space horror movie.
We make our way inside. In an instant, we are in the belly of the beast. A cavernous skeletal roof arches above us and, along the twisted bar, revellers are enjoying ornately coloured cocktails while sitting in bone-latticed thrones.
The tinted windows are framed with insect-like tendrils and, above a large communal table, a bulbous slug-shaped sculpture dangles. Enchanting and horrifying all at once.
We get ourselves an alien table for two and peruse the list of signature cocktails ranging between 7 and 13 Swiss francs. We both decide on the aptly named Dark Shadow. The potent blood-like mix of black vodka, cola and green lemon definitely leaves a lasting impression.
Other choices include Face Hugger (red vodka and Bailey's) and the Giger Mojito made with prosecco. A movie lover's bucket-list moment.
Very full and contented, we are lulled into an alien-infused cheesy sleep by the gentle rock and rhythm of the journey back.
In our suite of chocolate decadence, we run a bath and throw open the balcony doors. It is a cool night, but not too cold. The Jet is washing the old town in electric blue light.
Our Swiss-gourmand adventure at Lake Geneva is all too soon coming to a close. We had time only to dip our toes in the lake, but already, we know the naysayers' claims of "not much to do" are unfounded.
This lake-centric region is best described as Europe: bite-sized. And it is the gateway to some of the most beautiful, historic and tasty parts of this landlocked mountainous country.
I can't wait for summer harvest now.
• Marc Checkley, formerly a Straits Times copy editor, is a New Zealand freelance writer and producer working in the United Kingdom and Switzerland.