Sake rice has a bigger grain than the type you typically eat, with more starch at the centre.
That is good because starch is what you want to convert into sugar and then to alcohol.
But surrounding the starch in every grain of rice is protein and fat, which are not good because of the unwelcome flavours they add to sake.
So every grain has to be milled down and the best gets reduced by up to 60 per cent.
But it is what the brewery does to the milled rice that forever changes my view of sake and the world around it.
The first hint comes when we are told not to eat natto, the fermented soya bean that is the staple of the Japanese breakfast, on the morning of the visit to the brewery. No yogurt either.
It is a necessary precaution to ensure we do not introduce any unwanted micro-organism into the sake-making.
Then we are garbed in white coats and hair nets, take off our shoes to put on clean slippers and enter the room where koji is being made.
Koji is the magic that turns rice to sake with a yeast that has been carefully cultivated after years of research.
It is a living, bubbling mash and the fermentation takes up to a month before it is ready to be pressed to separate the clear sake from the rest of the brew.
But to get the exact flavours and aroma requires craftsmanship honed through the centuries.
The master brewer, or toji, decides, using his senses, how much water is needed and the temperature and humidity at each stage of the process, and he turns the koji by hand with huge ladles to get the mix right.
We visit four other breweries.
The rice may be different, so too the amount milled and the type of water used, and there are variations in the techniques that make for different types of sake.
But everywhere, it is the same care and dedication to the craft.
At the Suehiro brewery in Aizuwakamatsu, we meet 80-year-old toji Juichi Sato.
Here we try our hand, carrying the hot steamed rice in wooden buckets to spread on the floor to cool it down, then wrapping it up in cloth, up a flight of stairs, to pour the cooled rice into the koji mix.
It is back-breaking work, but Mr Sato moves like an 18-year old. He decides everything that goes on at this 165-year-old brewery.
At Yamatogawa brewery in Kitakata, we are taken to the rice fields it owns.
It is the last day of the harvest before winter sets in and proud owner Kazunori Sato tells us it has been a good one this season.
There have been years when the cold weather arrives early and destroys the crop.
Perhaps the most innovative of the breweries we visit is Daishichi in Nihonmatsu.
It specialises in a traditional method of brewing called kimoto, in which naturally occurring lacticacid bacteria is used to create a very strong yeast, resulting in sake that can keep over time with a mature aroma and deep flavours.
Founded in 1752 by a samurai family, it has modernised its operations, including inventing a special machine that is able to mill rice elliptically, taking off more of the unwanted stuff than in conventional methods.
At the last stop, Tsurunoe brewery in Aizu Wakamatsu, there is a pleasant surprise: Ms Yuri Hayashi is a rare female toji in a male-dominated business, having taken over when her brother decided sake was not his cup of tea.
She runs this boutique brewery with her husband and everything is done by hand, including capping every single bottle and labelling it.