weeks, and comes bone-in.
Adding a touch of the accompanying salt, wasabi or Wakanui sauce - a pleasant blend of soya sauce, garlic, mirin and seaweed, among other things - helps. But I'd prefer to taste the meat.
So overall, I am not a fan. The pleasure of biting into a full-flavoured piece of tender and juicy meat is what I look for in a steak. And for that, nothing beats a medium-rare piece of United States Department of Agriculture Prime ribeye.
If you are a fan of American steaks, Wakanui is not for you. Go only if you like your beef mild and tender.
I've always liked New Zealand lamb, though, because it is tender and tasty, without the gaminess that puts many people off the meat.
In my review of the first Wakanui in 2014, I favoured the lamb over the beef. I still do. The Wakanui Spring Lamb ($42 for half rack) is nicely seasoned and grilled, and the meat is moist and very tender.
A colleague finds it a bit too mild and wonders if it would be more flavourful if the lamb is allowed to grow longer than the six months when it is slaughtered.
I agree that a bit more flavour would make it even better. As another friend used to say, what's the point of eating lamb if it doesn't taste of lamb?
Besides the meats, the menu also offers a couple of salads and some seafood items. Try the Seasonal Hassun ($32) - a trio of Japanese starters such as tomatoes, cured salmon and deep-fried asparagus - if you do not mind the high price for the little bit of food.
I find the Hot Smoked Salmon ($24) to be better value. The New Zealand salmon is a bit salty, but that is mellowed out by the French beans and diced tomato topping it. And the oily fish has a smooth texture that I like.
The Steamed Green Lip New Zealand Mussels ($22) sound really expensive when you are told that there are only four shellfish in the dish. But they are huge so I wouldn't call them overpriced. Cooked in white wine flavoured with lemongrass and cardamom, they are delicious, so I'd recommend them too.
The dessert to order is the hokey pokey ice cream ($14), consisting of a scoop of vanilla ice cream with crunchy bits of honeycomb toffee. It may not be very creative, but the combination works.
So I'll be happy to go back to Wakanui. Even though it won't be for the beef.
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•The Sunday Times paid for the meals at the eateries reviewed here.