Hawkers galore on Michelin's Bib list

They make up half of 34 eateries recognised for good value meals in inaugural local Michelin Guide

Four hawker stalls from Amoy Street Food Centre were given the Bib Gourmand rating in the inaugural Michelin Guide for Singapore, to be launched next Thursday. The rating rewards establishments offering high-quality meals for less than $45. The proud
Four hawker stalls from Amoy Street Food Centre were given the Bib Gourmand rating in the inaugural Michelin Guide for Singapore, to be launched next Thursday. The rating rewards establishments offering high-quality meals for less than $45. The proud hawkers behind the honoured Amoy Street stalls are (from left) Famous Crispy Curry Puff owner Lee Meng Li, 47; A Noodle Story co-owner Ben Tham, 34; Hoo Kee Rice Dumpling owner Ryk Chew, 41; and Hong Kee Beef Noodle owner Tony Tan Tan Tong, 58. ST PHOTO: MARCUS TAN
Mr Arif, owner of Bismillah Biryani in Dunlop Street and one-north, thought it was a joke when he received messages from customers congratulating him on his Bib Gourmand rating.
Mr Arif, owner of Bismillah Biryani in Dunlop Street and one-north, thought it was a joke when he received messages from customers congratulating him on his Bib Gourmand rating. ST PHOTO: MARCUS TAN

The text messages came rapidly yesterday morning to the mobile phone of Mr Arif Salahuddin, 55, owner of Bismillah Biryani in Dunlop Street and one-north.

They were from customers congratulating him.

He did not know what they were going on about until The Straits Times called him: He had been awarded a Bib Gourmand rating in the inaugural Michelin Guide for Singapore, to be launched on July 21.

  • The 34 on the list

  • RESTAURANTS

    • Alaturka, 16 Bussorah Street

    • Hjh Maimunah, 11 Jalan Pisang

    • Ka Soh, 2 College Road

    • Kok Sen, 30 Keong Saik Road

    • Lagnaa, 6 Upper Dickson Road

    • New Ubin Seafood Block 27, Sin Ming Road

    • Peony Jade at Keppel Club 10 Bukit Chermin Road

    • Shish Mahal, 180 Albert Street

    • Song Fa, six outlets, including 17 New Bridge Road

    • 328 Katong Laksa 53 East Coast Road

    • True Blue Cuisine 49 Armenian Street

    • Whole Earth, 76 Peck Seah Street

    • Yhingthai Palace, 36 Purvis Street

    • Zaffron Kitchen
    Two outlets, including 135/137 East Coast Road


    FOOD CENTRES

    Alexandra Village Food Centre

    • Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa

    Amoy Street Food Centre

    • A Noodle Story

    • Famous Crispy Curry Puff

    • Hong Kee Beef Noodle

    • Hoo Kee Rice Dumpling

    Timbre+

    • The Fishball Story

    Hong Lim Market & Food Centre

    • Famous Sungei Road Trishaw Laksa

    Bukit Merah View Market & Food Centre

    • Na Na Homemade Curry

    Toa Payoh West Market & Food Centre

    • Chey Sua Carrot Cake

    Maxwell Food Centre

    • Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice

    Mei Ling Market & Food Centre

    • Shi Hui Yuan Hor Fun Specialty

    Newton Food Centre

    • Alliance Seafood

    Tiong Bahru Market

    • Tiong Bahru Hainanese Boneless Chicken Rice

    • Hong Heng Fried Sotong Prawn Mee

    Whampoa Makan Place

    • Balestier Road Hoover Rojak

    • Liang Zhao Ji Duck Rice


    OTHERS

    • Wedang, Block 117, Aljunied Ave 2

    • Bismillah Biryani 50 Dunlop Street

    • JB Ah Meng Kitchen 2 Lorong 23 Geylang

    • Sin Huat Eating House 659/661 Lorong 35 Geylang

In all, 34 eateries were given the rating, half of them hawker stalls. Most of those on the list knew what the Michelin Guide was but were not familiar with the Bib Gourmand award. It is for eateries that offer good value meals, which by Michelin's calculations is $45 here.

The list was released yesterday, ahead of the announcement next week of which restaurants here will receive Michelin's coveted one-, two- and three-star ratings.

Four hawker stalls in Amoy Street Food Centre - A Noodle Story, Famous Crispy Curry Puff, Hong Kee Beef Noodle and Hoo Kee Rice Dumpling - received the Bib Gourmand rating. Zi char stalwarts JB Ah Meng Kitchen and Sin Huat Eating House in Geylang did too.

Peranakan restaurant True Blue in Armenian Street and Indian restaurant Zaffron Kitchen in East Coast Road made the cut, as did Turkish and Mediterranean restaurant Alaturka in Bussorah Street and Peony Jade, a Cantonese restaurant at Keppel Club.

As soon as the list was revealed, foodies were congratulating their favourite hawkers but there were just as many knives out on social media.

Ambassador-at-large Tommy Koh, who has been a judge for The Straits Times and Lianhe Zaobao Singapore Hawker Masters awards, told The Straits Times: "As a champion of our hawker food, I am pleased that the inaugural Michelin Guide Singapore 2016 contains so many of our favourite hawker dishes.

"I am pleased that two of the winners of the Singapore Hawker Masters competition, namely, Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice and Hoover Rojak, are on the list."

However, others said that Singapore did not need foreigners to judge its street food and criticised the list for not being comprehensive enough.

Civil servant Wong Lok Oon, 62, said: "This list is not a good representation of our hawker culture. I don't see any Malay food stalls, and they have missed out good hawker centres such as Old Airport Road Food Centre, which has great lor mee and zi char, and Adam Road Food Centre for its prawn mee and nasi lemak."

But it was all sweet for Mr Arif from Bismillah, who started his business 15 years ago.

He said of the text messages: "I thought it was all a joke. After all, we make only briyani; we are not a full-service restaurant. I'm not someone who puts out advertisements or does promotions, so I'm glad for the recognition."

Hawker Douglas Ng, 25, who started The Fishball Story in 2014 at Golden Mile Food Centre and moved it to Timbre+ in Ayer Rajah Crescent this year, said he was surprised.

He said: "I hope this shows people that the hawker trade is not a dying one, and encourages more young people to make it a career.

"I think what made my stall stand out is the traditional way of hand-making our fishballs with yellowtail fish meat, using my grandmother's recipe.

"I think tourists will be visiting my stall, with the mention in the guide."

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on July 15, 2016, with the headline Hawkers galore on Michelin's Bib list. Subscribe