But turn left and you come to a corridor leading to eight private rooms. This is where business deals will be made, or where the shy can dine away from public view.
The rooms look elegant and comfortable. I especially like the four with glass walls that look over the mall below.
The menu, not surprisingly, leans heavily on seafood. But like many Chinese restaurants, the selection is more expansive than the menu would suggest.
The manager may ask you to join him at the tanks, for example, introduce you to the live contents and suggest ways to cook them.
I find this a good way to discover new dishes, although, since you may not have a menu to refer to, it is wise to ask about prices before you agree to anything.
I see some Japanese geoduck, a smaller cousin to the Canadian ones that usually turn up in restaurant menus.
The manager suggests getting the trunk-like clam stir-fried with qinglong vegetable ($68), which is a good idea.
The thinly sliced clam is sweet and crunchy, and the vegetable - a chive-like green that is getting popular with Chinese restaurants here - is crisp and comes with a different kind of sweetness.
There are also pan shells ($8 for 100g), which I have stir-fried with fluffy egg white. But this dish is less successful, as the clam meat is pretty firm. The traditional recipe for this dish uses fish meat, which is softer and a better match for the egg.
If you want another shellfish dish, the live abalones ($32 each) are better. Brushed with Thai fish sauce and pan-fried lightly, they keep their natural seafood flavour and springy texture.
The crispy kangkong topped with cuttlefish and seafood sauce (from $14.80) is not to be missed. The deep-fried kangkong is a nice change from the usual sauteed vegetable and the sweet, sour and spicy sauce is delicious.
You should also not ignore the signature dishes that Seafood Paradise built its name on.
Its chilli crab ($8 for 100g) is a favourite of mine. Instead of the ketchupy sweetness that characterise most versions of this iconic Singapore dish, the gravy boasts an aromatic blend of herbs such as lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves.
It is sweet and tangy, thickened with egg to give it a smooth, curd-like texture.
You can mop it up with steamed or deep-fried buns ($3 for four), but I find the flavours so well-balanced that I spoon it straight into my mouth.
It would be a good idea, too, to add a couple of meat dishes for variety. I'd recommend the baked pork ribs with honey pepper sauce ($5.80). Unlike the usual honey- baked ribs, it is not just sweet but also a little spicy from the pepper, which is a nice touch.
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• The Sunday Times paid for its meals at the eateries reviewed here.