SINGAPORE - (THE NEW PAPER) One of the latest entries into Holland Village is Full Of Luck Club from the team behind Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant.
The idea is to serve "progressive Cantonese cuisine" to young people.
But it feels like Full Of Luck Club has squandered Li Bai's legacy. The Li Bai experience starts with excellent service and ends with a meal that leaves you broke but satisfied.
Here, it is inexpensive but that may be its biggest point in its favour.
The meal I had was filled with dishes that were a tad clunky and fussy.
Those that worked were simple, and were nods to tradition.
Since the restaurant is targeted at younger people, perhaps tradition is not on the agenda - but it should be.
It may be lacking in food and service, but it is hardly out of luck yet.
With a few tweaks and a bit of time, Full Of Luck Club could well be the place to be at Holland V.
The Golden Sand Corn with Salted Egg Yolk ($4.80) is another simple and delicious dish. It does not try to be more than what it is called - and it works. The hint of spice is addictive too.
The Moonlight Truffle Beef Hor Fun ($20) is a hit on social media but it gets a dislike from me. It is such a muddled dish. The truffle overwhelms everything and the noodles need some wok hei.
One of my favourites here is the Braised Spinach Beancurd ($16). It is simple yet effective. The homemade bean curd has the right mix of savoury, crispy and smoothness.
One of the more pleasing dishes is the Spicy Stuffed Yong Tau Foo ($16). It is an array of vegetables and tofu stuffed with minced pork, with a tasty spiced fermented bean paste. It is a comforting dish.
I enjoyed the Poached Wontons in Chilli Soy ($7.20) so much, I ordered another immediately. The spicy vinegar sauce pushes it over the edge, but the second portion seemed bland. There was barely any sauce and even that was weak.
Full Of Luck Club
Holland Village, 243, Holland Avenue
Sunday to Thursday, 11am to 11pm Friday and Saturday, 11am to 1am
This article was first published on July 27, 2016.
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