Three new eateries offer great pizzas to chew on

(THE BUSINESS TIMES) - It wasn't so long ago that a craving for pizza led us to the conclusion that good ones are hard to find in Singapore. Until recently, when three restaurants opened and now we've got our fill of doughy, resilient, chewy cheese-covered comfort food.

When Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar opened, any excitement about Jean-Georges Vongerichten soon dissipated when it became clear what the real draw was: perfectly proofed pizza smothered with truffle paste and fontina cheese, complete with puffed golden edges.

It was our favourite pizza till the casual Italian eatery Amo opened in Hong Kong Street claiming to serve Neapolitan-style pizzas made with a two-year-old mother yeast. Now it's a hard fight between the two, with Amo leading in the pillowy dough stakes. The pizza base is full of air pockets that make each bite light and chewy, with tasty add-ons such as stracciatella, prosciutto and arugula. We're just not fond of the salty-sharp tomato paste spread on the pizza, which tastes like the generic supermarket variety.

In a pinch, the Japanese chef-helmed Luka restaurant does a very decent, thin crust pizza that manages to work in a good bite and puffy edges despite its leaner look. It packs burrata, prosciutto, rocket and fresh sweet tomatoes with a surprising drizzle of sweet balsamic that actually pulls the flavours together.

With all these choices out there, we're no longer mourning the demise of our portable pizza oven at home.