Noma no longer top restaurant in Denmark

Noma’s head chef Rene Redzepi at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, where he cooked last year.
Noma’s head chef Rene Redzepi at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, where he cooked last year. PHOTO: ST FILE

COPENHAGEN • Denmark's famed Noma restaurant, which has been voted the world's best four times, is no longer top in its home country according to the Michelin Guide.

The latest Nordic edition of the French-based guide gave its prized three-star rating to another Copenhagen eatery, the Geranium - the first in Denmark to receive top Michelin marks.

Noma, named best restaurant in the world by Britain's Restaurant magazine in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014, was left with only two - still impressive but the same as last year.

Geranium's top chef Rasmus Kofoed received one of international cooking's most coveted prizes, the Bocuse d'Or, in 2011. He opened his bio-friendly restaurant in 2007, winning his first Michelin star in 2012 and his second a year later.

In Denmark, the latest Michelin rating did not surprise gastronomes, who spoke of Geranium's consistently superlative standards.

"Noma makes food into a plaything, its dishes are too all over the place to get three stars. It serves entertaining cuisine, but there is a little too much banter and jokes for Michelin," the editor-in-chief of Gastro magazine Jesper Uhrup Jensen told DR public television.

France's La Liste, which collates the views of about 200 gastronomic guides and websites, puts Geranium at No. 173 in its global rankings, ahead of Noma at No. 217.

The only other Nordic restaurant to receive three Michelin stars is Oslo's Maaemo, which also got its top rating this year, joining the exclusive club of 116 three-star eateries worldwide.

AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE

A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on February 26, 2016, with the headline 'Noma no longer top restaurant in Denmark'. Print Edition | Subscribe