Eating Out With Wong Ah Yoke

Jazzed-up zichar dining

Lai Bao serves generous portions of stylish, inexpensive local fare

Sixties Fish Head Charcoal Steamboat ($15, $25 and $35 for grouper; $10, $18 and $24 for snapper)
Sixties Fish Head Charcoal Steamboat ($15, $25 and $35 for grouper; $10, $18 and $24 for snapper) PHOTOS: LAI BAO
Lai Bao 13 Spices Black Pepper Crab ($30 for one crab, $50 for two)
Lai Bao 13 Spices Black Pepper Crab ($30 for one crab, $50 for two) PHOTOS: LAI BAO
Ginger Spring Chicken ($6 for half, $12 for whole)
Ginger Spring Chicken ($6 for half, $12 for whole) PHOTOS: LAI BAO
Grandma's Recipe Pork Belly ($9, $12, $15)
Grandma's Recipe Pork Belly ($9, $12, $15)
PHOTOS: LAI BAO
Old School Sweet & Sour Pork ($8, $10 and $12)
Old School Sweet & Sour Pork ($8, $10 and $12) PHOTOS: LAI BAO
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What I like about restaurant groups opening eateries in non-air-conditioned Housing Board coffee shops is how they bring with them the discipline of operating in shopping malls.

Dishes are plated photogenically, premises are smartened up and staff are outfitted with neat uniforms.

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on March 22, 2020, with the headline Jazzed-up zichar dining. Subscribe