Gordon Ramsay's Bread Street Kitchen has hits and misses

Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay is in town to officially launch his first restaurant in Singapore, Bread Street Kitchen, at Marina Bay Sands.
Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay is in town to officially launch his first restaurant in Singapore, Bread Street Kitchen, at Marina Bay Sands.PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
Says Aini: "I boss him around a lot just now. But he loves it. Men love to be bossed." <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Says Aini: "I boss him around a lot just now. But he loves it. Men love to be bossed." Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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Among its signature dishes is Roasted Veal Carpaccio.
Among its signature dishes is Roasted Veal Carpaccio.PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
At the end of the meal, Ramsay says he finally understood the Asian method of "cooking with your eyes" - "agak agak". Adding that if he had come in with a reciple with precise measurements, "she'd kick me in the a****" <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.
At the end of the meal, Ramsay says he finally understood the Asian method of "cooking with your eyes" - "agak agak". Adding that if he had come in with a reciple with precise measurements, "she'd kick me in the a****" Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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It also serves up the BSK Burger, featuring melted Monterey Jack cheese and spicy sriracha mayo in a brioche bun.
It also serves up the BSK Burger, featuring melted Monterey Jack cheese and spicy sriracha mayo in a brioche bun.PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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Baby chicken, chimichurri sauce, burnt lemon
Baby chicken, chimichurri sauce, burnt lemonPHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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Traditional fish and chips, crushed peas, tartar sauce
Traditional fish and chips, crushed peas, tartar saucePHOTO: BREAD STREET KITCHEN
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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Tamarind spiced chicken wings, spring onions, coriander
Tamarind spiced chicken wings, spring onions, corianderPHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
"I won't burn it, trust me. Right now it's more than my life's worth," says Ramsay, trying to reassure Aini, who's watching Ramsay's every move like a hawk. <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
"I won't burn it, trust me. Right now it's more than my life's worth," says Ramsay, trying to reassure Aini, who's watching Ramsay's every move like a hawk. Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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Potted salt beef brisket, grain mustard, piccalilli, Caraway crackers
Potted salt beef brisket, grain mustard, piccalilli, Caraway crackers PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
Back in the kitchen, Aini warns Ramsay not to burn the Rendang. <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Back in the kitchen, Aini warns Ramsay not to burn the Rendang. Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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Spicy tuna tartare, chilli, garlic, sesame oil, wonton crisps
Spicy tuna tartare, chilli, garlic, sesame oil, wonton crispsPHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
Ramsay comments that he hopes he doesn't burn the rendang. <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Ramsay comments that he hopes he doesn't burn the rendang. Read more here.
After giving a Tian Tian staff member a high five and asking him for a vote, Ramsay left the bustling hawker centre with his plate of chicken rice.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
After giving a Tian Tian staff member a high five and asking him for a vote, Ramsay left the bustling hawker centre with his plate of chicken rice.Read more here.
Flatbread, butternut squash, Taleggio cheese, mushrooms, pine nuts, basil pesto
Flatbread, butternut squash, Taleggio cheese, mushrooms, pine nuts, basil pestoPHOTO: BREAD STREET KITCHEN
"You make me nervous," Ramsay says.  <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
"You make me nervous," Ramsay says. Read more here.
He spent about 10 minutes with Tian Tian's owner, Madam Foo Kui Lian, where he tried the soup, rice and commented that the chilli was too spicy.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
He spent about 10 minutes with Tian Tian's owner, Madam Foo Kui Lian, where he tried the soup, rice and commented that the chilli was too spicy.Read more here.
Bread Street Kitchen's bar area features a communal table and serves a selection of world wines as well as both classic and distinctive cocktails.
Bread Street Kitchen's bar area features a communal table and serves a selection of world wines as well as both classic and distinctive cocktails.
When pouring oil into the wok, Aini comments: "Abit more abit more...Oh don't be shy Gordon, just pour the damn thing out."<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Bread Street Kitchen's bar area features a communal table and serves a selection of world wines as well as both classic and distinctive cocktails.PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
Aviation cocktail
Aviation cocktail
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Aviation cocktailPHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
He arrived at Maxwell Road Food Centre almost an hour after his scheduled arrival time of 11am, dressed casually in a black tee-shirt and jeans.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
He arrived at Maxwell Road Food Centre almost an hour after his scheduled arrival time of 11am, dressed casually in a black tee-shirt and jeans. Read more here.
Cosmopolitan (1934 Recipe)
Cosmopolitan (1934 Recipe)
Cosmopolitan (1934 Recipe)
Cosmopolitan (1934 Recipe)PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
Tio Abuelo
Tio Abuelo
Tio Abuelo
Tio AbueloPHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
Ramsay, known for his fiery temper, is in town for the Singtel Hawker Heroes challenge on Sunday.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Ramsay, known for his fiery temper, is in town for the Singtel Hawker Heroes challenge on Sunday.Read more here.
The restaurant has a total capacity of 149 and is open daily for lunch, dinner and bar services.
The restaurant has a total capacity of 149 and is open daily for lunch, dinner and bar services.
The restaurant has a total capacity of 149 and is open daily for lunch, dinner and bar services.
The restaurant has a total capacity of 149 and is open daily for lunch, dinner and bar services.PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
It is located along the waterfront at the south promenade of The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands on Level 1 and B1.
It is located along the waterfront at the south promenade of The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands on Level 1 and B1.
It is located along the waterfront at the south promenade of The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands on Level 1 and B1.
It is located along the waterfront at the south promenade of The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands on Level 1 and B1.PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
The notoriously foul-mouthed chef was previously in Singapore in September for the Singapore Airlines Singapore Grand Prix.
The notoriously foul-mouthed chef was previously in Singapore in September for the Singapore Airlines Singapore Grand Prix.
In a voiceover, Ramsay says: "I'm not used to getting shoved around like this." "I'm beginning to wish I was still sitting outside." <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
In a voiceover, Ramsay says: "I'm not used to getting shoved around like this." "I'm beginning to wish I was still sitting outside." Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
There, he talked to the media about the restaurant and also went culinary talent-spotting.
There, he talked to the media about the restaurant and also went culinary talent-spotting.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
There, he talked to the media about the restaurant and also went culinary talent-spotting.
There, he talked to the media about the restaurant and also went culinary talent-spotting.PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
The Bread Street Kitchen in Singapore will be led by executive chef Sabrina Stillhart, who has been with the Gordon Ramsay Group for nearly a decade.
The Bread Street Kitchen in Singapore will be led by executive chef Sabrina Stillhart, who has been with the Gordon Ramsay Group for nearly a decade.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
The Bread Street Kitchen in Singapore will be led by executive chef Sabrina Stillhart, who has been with the Gordon Ramsay Group for nearly a decade.
The Bread Street Kitchen in Singapore will be led by executive chef Sabrina Stillhart, who has been with the Gordon Ramsay Group for nearly a decade.PHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
Coffee and white chocolate parfait with poached blackberries
Coffee and white chocolate parfait with poached blackberries
She shows Ramsay how to cut the beef. <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
She shows Ramsay how to cut the beef. Read more here.
Coffee and white chocolate parfait with poached blackberries
Coffee and white chocolate parfait with poached blackberriesPHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
Dark chocolate and morello cherry cannoli
Dark chocolate and morello cherry cannoli
When Ramsay asks if he can help her out in the kitchen, Aini says sure, "if you don't mind me telling you what to do." <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
When Ramsay asks if he can help her out in the kitchen, Aini says sure, "if you don't mind me telling you what to do." Read more here.
Dark chocolate and morello cherry cannoli
Dark chocolate and morello cherry cannoliPHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
Monkey Shoulder Cranachan cheesecake with roasted balsamic strawberries
Monkey Shoulder Cranachan cheesecake with roasted balsamic strawberries
When Ramsay asks Aini, the owner of the restaurant, where the recipe is from, she replies:

"The recipe is from my mother, and if you ask me how much onion do you put inside I'll says agak gak.  <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" targe
When Ramsay asks Aini, the owner of the restaurant, where the recipe is from, she replies: "The recipe is from my mother, and if you ask me how much onion do you put inside I'll says agak gak. Read more here.
Monkey Shoulder Cranachan cheesecake with roasted balsamic strawberries
Monkey Shoulder Cranachan cheesecake with roasted balsamic strawberriesPHOTO: MARINA BAY SANDS
The group order rendang, a classic Malay dish, and Gordon Ramsay requests to be shown how to make the rendang.  <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
The group order rendang, a classic Malay dish, and Gordon Ramsay requests to be shown how to make the rendang. Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
Excited members of the public itching to get a good shot of the chef shoved each other to get closer to the chef, who shook hands with some of them.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25554" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Excited members of the public itching to get a good shot of the chef shoved each other to get closer to the chef, who shook hands with some of them.Read more here.
In the video found on You Tube, Gordon Ramsay is at a restaurant in Malaysia run by an auntie "with a temper as fiery as a barbeque." <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25550" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
In the video found on You Tube, Gordon Ramsay is at a restaurant in Malaysia run by an auntie "with a temper as fiery as a barbeque." Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
He spent about 10 minutes with Tian Tian's owner, Madam Foo Kui Lian, where he tried the soup, rice and commented that the chilli was too spicy.
He spent about 10 minutes with Tian Tian's owner, Madam Foo Kui Lian, where he tried the soup, rice and commented that the chilli was too spicy.
Crowds gathered at the famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice stall from as early as 8am to await the arrival of Scottish chef Gordon Ramsay.
Crowds gathered at the famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice stall from as early as 8am to await the arrival of Scottish chef Gordon Ramsay.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
Mr Gordon Ramsey shows a fingers crossed gesture with Mr Ang Kiam Meng, from Jumbo Seafood Restaurant, in anticipation of the results.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Mr Gordon Ramsey shows a fingers crossed gesture with Mr Ang Kiam Meng, from Jumbo Seafood Restaurant, in anticipation of the results.Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay hugging Ms Nancy Koh from 328 Katong Laksa during the announcement of the results for the SingTel Hawker Heroes Challenge.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay hugging Ms Nancy Koh from 328 Katong Laksa during the announcement of the results for the SingTel Hawker Heroes Challenge.Read more here.
Mr Gordon Ramsey clenches the fist of Mr Ang Kiam Meng, from Jumbo Seafood Restaurant, in anticipation of the results.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Mr Gordon Ramsey clenches the fist of Mr Ang Kiam Meng, from Jumbo Seafood Restaurant, in anticipation of the results.Read more here.
A thousand servings of food will be available on a first-come-first-serve basis.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
A thousand servings of food will be available on a first-come-first-serve basis.Read more here.
People tasting food cooked by Gordon Ramsay and three of Singapore's top hawkers, next to Newton Hawker Centre.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
People tasting food cooked by Gordon Ramsay and three of Singapore's top hawkers, next to Newton Hawker Centre.Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
Gordon Ramsay directing helpers as he takes on three of Singapore's top hawkers.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Gordon Ramsay directing helpers as he takes on three of Singapore's top hawkers.Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
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Ramsey's work in the top row.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Ramsey's work in the top row.Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
Ramsay pitted against Tian Tian for the best chicken rice dish.
Ramsay pitted against Tian Tian for the best chicken rice dish.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
He won in the chilli crab category.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
He won in the chilli crab category.Read more here.
Gordon Ramsay preparing for his chilli crab dish,<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Gordon Ramsay preparing for his chilli crab dish,Read more here.
He stopped to pose for photos with admirers, shaking hands with them and even personally serving some lucky fans in the queue for the Hawker Heroes dishes.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
He stopped to pose for photos with admirers, shaking hands with them and even personally serving some lucky fans in the queue for the Hawker Heroes dishes.Read more here.
Even after being mobbed countless times since touching down in Singapore this week, Ramsay was still up for more up-close encounters with his very fanatic fans.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Even after being mobbed countless times since touching down in Singapore this week, Ramsay was still up for more up-close encounters with his very fanatic fans.Read more here.
A fan of Gordon Ramsay holding up a poster. <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
A fan of Gordon Ramsay holding up a poster. Read more here.
Gordon Ramsay being mobbed by fans at the newton hawker centre carpark. <p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Gordon Ramsay being mobbed by fans at the newton hawker centre carpark. Read more here.
Held at Newton Circus Food Centre on July 7, 2013, SingTel Hawker Heroes challenge saw the Singapore hawker team emerge victorious, as voted by 1,000 attendees who ate their way through the three dishes.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/2556
Held at Newton Circus Food Centre on July 7, 2013, SingTel Hawker Heroes challenge saw the Singapore hawker team emerge victorious, as voted by 1,000 attendees who ate their way through the three dishes.Read more here.
British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay arrives at the Newton Food Centre in Singapore on July 7, 2013,<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay arrives at the Newton Food Centre in Singapore on July 7, 2013,Read more here.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
Read more here.
If you thought the Hello Kitty craze was insane, wait 'til you've survived the mobs and the queueing for Hawker Heroes.<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Read more here.</a></p>
If you thought the Hello Kitty craze was insane, wait 'til you've survived the mobs and the queueing for Hawker Heroes.Read more here.
However TNP's Hedy Khoo felt that Ramsay's dish did not taste like chilli crab, and lacked that aromatic flavour of a well-fried rempah base. However, the crab was fresh and sweet.
<p><a href="http://www.soshiok.com/article/25568" target="_blank">Rea
However TNP's Hedy Khoo felt that Ramsay's dish did not taste like chilli crab, and lacked that aromatic flavour of a well-fried rempah base. However, the crab was fresh and sweet. Read more here.
Jumbo Seafood's crabs had felt a bit more mushy than usual; perhaps the stress had gotten to the hawker chef this time, said Hong Xinying of herworldPLUS.
Jumbo Seafood's crabs had felt a bit more mushy than usual; perhaps the stress had gotten to the hawker chef this time, said Hong Xinying of herworldPLUS.
Ramsay's crabs were chewy and springy, with an unexpectedly spicier tomato sauce.
Ramsay's crabs were chewy and springy, with an unexpectedly spicier tomato sauce.
Gordon Ramsay wins with chilli crab but loses with his laksa and chicken rice
Gordon Ramsay wins with chilli crab but loses with his laksa and chicken rice

SINGAPORE - (THE BUSINESS TIMES) Gordon Ramsay is an easy target for haters - those upset by life's many injustices that one buff but foul- mouthed chef with a fondness for hair gel and words rhyming with "duck" can be so successful just by yelling at people on TV.

Or how the three-Michelin-starred chef who can actually cook has instead sold out to soul-sucking celebritydom and the fast money of international chain restaurants.

By the time you're done absorbing the persona of Ramsay as shaped by the UK press, Kitchen Nightmares or even his PR liaisons with local media, your cynical side will be convinced that this is the Devil in cycling shorts lining his pockets with cash, spouting politically correct bonmots about Asia while cackling at us poor deluded souls who are so hard up to be anointed by his presence that we'll settle for a generic British gastrobar that just happens to have his name on it.

If you have no way of judging the man himself, you can at least judge his food at Bread Street Kitchen, which is no Dinner by Heston but it ain't Jamie's Italian either. Plus, Ramsay actually showed up at the opening in Marina Bay Sands, which we can't say about Jamie Oliver at his first Singapore franchise in VivoCity. So one point to team Ramsay.

  • BREAD STREET KITCHEN

  • [Heading]

    [Porta ac consectetur ac morbi leo risus]

Visually, Bread Street Kitchen couldn't have asked for a better spot. The night view of the skyscraper-studded river is National Day pride-worthy, and the number of people jogging along the promenade is proof of how diverse the population is. The restaurant itself is two levels of chic - the upper one having the best view - ticking off all the boxes in the how- to-design-a-London-hotspot manual. We like that it attracts a whole spectrum of diners apart from the hipster crowd.

Kids can have (relatively quiet) birthday meals and balding foreign men can make out with their cropped top and skinny jeans-ed sarong party girls at the bar to prove that some old cliches never die.

It's consistency and execution that separates the one good meal and another so-so one we have over several days. (Incidentally, you know you're eating at a foreign import when you can't understand the heavy European accent of the lady who takes your reservation after several attempts to get through its hotline).

Our first lunch is a breeze - we're won over by the lovely warm multigrain and sourdough rolls in the bread basket and the amiable pizza-like flatbread (S$20) covered with comforting butternut squash and Taleggio cheese (but dig out the nasty large sour caper berries if you don't like the acidic contrast). Creamy pea soup (S$18) meets our criteria for a quintessential English staple - hot and thick pulverised green goodness with rich body, and little bits of lobster we initially mistake as fatty bacon bits.

We would go back for the fish and chips (S$26), where fleshy white fish meets a coating of golden crispness with just the right breakaway crunch, and fat fries are made from potatoes actually cut by hand. Mushy peas, though, remain an English oddity we don't get.

Dingley Dell pork chops (S$44) is a sad example of what happens when you take a nice hunk of meat with a bouncy layer of fat and grill all traces of moisture out of it. We can taste what a good piece of pork it is, but we get no joy out of it.

Our second meal is a watered-down affair, maybe because the first-meal novelty is gone. The bread rolls have their original enthusiasm sucked out of them - they're cold, hard and resentful. A good dousing of olive oil has no effect on floury and clumpy pearls of Israeli couscous (S$16), leaving us to pick out the sweet cranberries and corn niblets to salvage what we can. If you want roughage, the red cabbage, kale and fennel salad (S$16) with almonds and sunflower seeds in an orange dressing will cover you in the paleo department.

You could go paleo with the spicy tuna tartare (S$19) without the deep fried wonton skins, but you need them to mitigate the sharp chilli paste, sesame oil and garlic that smothers the raw chopped fish. The chilli marinade is an example of how Western chefs just don't understand Asian flavours - they get the heat but none of the nuances. It's the same with the Bang Bang chicken salad (S$18) we remember from a very old Ramsay cookbook, probably written back in the days when Asian restaurants in London used peanut butter to make satay gravy. So you get that same deja vu from the spicy peanut dressing the chicken is tossed in, with radish and jicama strips added for texture.

For the mains, the lamb chops (S$48) are cheaper than the steaks, and you get three generous-sized chops from a lamb that had time to run about the pasture a bit. There's oomph in the flavour - with enough bite and "lambiness" that may deter those used to single-mouthful baby lamb rack cutlets. The much-heard about slow-roasted pork belly (S$28) tastes more sous-vide than oven-roasted - tender but bland, albeit with a passable crunch of skin.

To end off, the creamy coffee and white chocolate parfait layered with chocolate cereal (S$18) and vaguely boozy Monkey Shoulder cranachon cheesecake (S$18) that's more creamy pudding than cheesecake would win in a face-off with banana sticky toffee pudding (S$18) and treacle tart (S$18). The latter two kind of plod along, weighed down by stodginess, and if this is what a treacle tart tastes like (we've never had it before), then we haven't missed anything. Instead, we miss the extra S$6 we have to pay for desserts that aren't worth more than S$12, tops.

Choose your dishes well, and a meal at Bread Street Kitchen can be highly pleasant. Even if you don't, the meal won't be a disaster. Ramsay hasn't lost the plot - he just needs to flesh it out more. And if he wants to prove he's twice the buff bod we think he is, he'll listen.

jaime@sph.com.sg

Rating: 6.5

Bread Street Kitchen
Bay Level, L1-81
The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
2 Bayfront Avenue
Tel: 6688 5665
Open for lunch and dinner daily: 11.30am to 5.30pm; 5.30pm to 10pm (until 12am Thurs to Sat)


What our ratings mean
10: The ultimate dining experience
9-9.5: Sublime
8-8.5: Excellent
7-7.5: Good to very good
6-6.5: Promising
5-5.5: Average


This article was first published on July 06, 2015.
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