Copenhagen restaurant Geranium beats Noma to Michelin three-star rating

Geranium chef Rasmus Kofoed (centre) celebrating his third Michelin star at a news conference in Copenhagen on Feb 24.
Geranium chef Rasmus Kofoed (centre) celebrating his third Michelin star at a news conference in Copenhagen on Feb 24.PHOTO: REUTERS

COPENHAGEN (AFP) - Denmark's famed Noma restaurant may have been voted the world's best four times, but it is no longer the best in its home country, according to the Michelin Guide.

The latest Nordic edition of the French-based guide, unveiled on Wednesday (Feb 24), gave its prized three-star rating to another Copenhagen eatery, the Geranium - the first in Denmark to get top Michelin marks.

Noma, which was named best restaurant in the world by Britain's Restaurant magazine in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014, has never been given more than two Michelin stars.

Geranium's chef Rasmus Kofoed, who received one of international cooking's most coveted prizes, the Bocuse d'Or, in 2011, opened his bio-friendly restaurant in 2007, won his first Michelin star in 2012 and his second a year later.

In Denmark, the latest Michelin rating did not surprise gastronomes, who spoke of Geranium's consistently superlative standards.

"Noma makes food into a plaything, its dishes are too all over the place to get three stars. They serve entertaining cuisine, but there is a little too much banter and jokes for Michelin," Gastro editor-in-chief Jesper Uhrup Jensen told DR public television.

France's La Liste, which collates the views of some 200 gastronomic guides and websites, puts Geranium at No. 173 in its global rankings, ahead of Noma at No. 217.

The only other Nordic restaurant with three Michelin stars is Oslo's Maaemo, which also got its top rating this year, joining the exclusive club of 116 three-star eateries worldwide.