Restaurant Review

Hearty mussel and clam pots at Angie’s

Dig into oysters, mussels and clams at the expanded Angie's

Angie's has grown. It used to be just a seafood bar, tucked in a corner of Sear, a steakhouse on the 45th floor of Singapore Land Tower in Raffles Place, which opened in late 2014.

But, after a four-month renovation of the entire floor, it returned earlier this month as a full-fledged restaurant with its own kitchen and dining areas.

The air-conditioned indoor area is tiny, with seats for just 18 people at two tables and a bar counter.

But there's a bigger space out on the terrace, where another 40 people can dine and take in a view of the Central Business District.

Standing fans help to cool - somewhat - the terrace during lunch, but when I return for dinner, they are gone. So forget about long sleeves or neckties if you do not want to feel too uncomfortable.

Also getting the thumbs-down is the slow service. My order of Half Dozen Oysters ($23) takes almost half an hour to arrive, which is inexplicably long, considering that the shellfish just needs to be shucked and placed on a bowl of ice.

  • ANGIE'S

  • Singapore Land Tower, 50 Raffles Place, Level 45, tel: 6221-9555, open: noon to 2.30pm, 5 to 10pm (Monday to Friday). Closed on weekend

    Food: 3.5/5 stars

    Service: 3/5 stars

    Ambience: 2.5/5 stars

    Price: About $70 a person

The assorted oysters, which come from various countries such as Australia and France, are good, though the selection depends on what the supplier delivers.

The restaurant is running a Happy Hour promotion from 6 to 8pm where you pay just $6 for the half dozen oysters as long as you order a main course.

And you should order a main because you must not miss the mussel and clam pots. They come in two sizes, as a 350g bowl ($19) and a 750g main ($38). And you can mix the two shellfish, which is what I do because I like variety.

You can choose among six ways to cook them, from the traditional white wine and garlic to Asian flavours such as tom yam.

The Tom Yam, however, tastes muted and does not really reflect the sour and spicy Thai soup. It's not bad, just not assertive enough to make an impression.

If you are looking for an Asian taste, try Angie's, an original concoction that includes dried shrimp, tomato, ginger, assam and chili. It is not very spicy, but all those different elements titillate the tastebuds.

My favourite flavour, though, is Lobster, a mix of fish stock and lobster bisque with slices of mushroom that works well with both mussels and clams.

You can dunk pieces of bread in the broth or drink it up like soup.

The mussels are locally farmed and big, with plump meat cooked just enough to leave it tender and juicy. The clams are not local, but also boast plump meat inside thick, heavy shells. And they are sweet.

Some other main dishes are good too. The Line-caught Halibut ($35) is a beautifully pan-fried fillet served with pine nut mash, candied walnuts, cranberry and toasted barley.

Or try the Fish & Chips ($23), where the beer-battered fish is topped with ultra-crispy flakes. The chips boast a nice contrast of crispness and fluffiness.

Other dishes are decent but not standouts. The Spanish Octopus ($18) is tender enough but lacks the smokiness one expects from chargrilling. The harissa dip it is served with does not add much in terms of flavour.

The Lump Crab Cake ($25) is generous with crabmeat but, despite being described as a homemade classic, comes across like it is made with processed crabmeat.

Right now, Angie's closes on weekends, which is a pity, as that is the best time to dress down in T-shirt and shorts and dig my fingers in pots of steaming clams and mussels.

The restaurant's reasoning is that Raffles Place is pretty dead on Saturdays and Sundays. But speaking for myself, that is also the best time to dine there - without the crowds and congested roads.

Cities such as Bangkok and Hong Kong turn their business districts into food and entertainment playgrounds after office hours and on weekends. Perhaps restaurateurs here can find inspiration in that.

• Follow Wong Ah Yoke on Twitter @STahyoke

• The Sunday Times paid for its meals at the eateries reviewed here.

A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on June 19, 2016, with the headline 'Bounty from the sea'. Print Edition | Subscribe