Cheap & Good

Belly good Western fare


It is no surprise that for many chefs, the love for cooking is cultivated at home. Many I have met on the job often dedicate their dishes to family members.

Recently, in this column, I wrote about a mee siam stall in Bukit Merah Central called Mummy's Mee Siam.

This time, a friend raved about a two-month-old Western food stall called Grandpa's Belly.

It is located at Broadway Food Centre next to Jalan Besar Stadium and is run by hawker Jean Loh, 23.

The stall's name is a tribute to her 93-year-old grandfather, whom the graduate of culinary school At-Sunrice GlobalChef Academy says is quite the foodie.


  • Jalan Besar Complex, Broadway Food Centre, 100 Tyrwhitt Road

    Open: 11am to 2.30pm, 6.30 to 8.45pm (Monday to Wednesday), 11am to 3pm (Thursday), 11am to 10pm (Friday and Saturday), closed on Sunday

    Info: Call 9788-3629 or go to

    Rating: 3.5/5

However, the food here is not traditional or old-fashioned.

In fact, it can rank with other hipster Western food stalls that sell more than the usual fried chicken or chicken chop.

The standard of food served here is closer to that of stalls such as Immanuel French Kitchen selling French food in Bukit Merah, or Hambaobao selling burgers at Beauty World Centre.

For starters, I try the mini "kong ba" sliders ($7 for three), with housemade pickled red onions.

I like that the white buns are deep-fried, not steamed. They have a nice crunch and are not too doughy. The pork belly is on the fatty side, but the meat is tender and juicy.

There is also a "kong ba" burger option as a main course. It costs $8 and comes in a burger bun with a choice of salad or fries.

I had to try the pulled pork sandwich (above) on the menu - the "It" sandwich to have.

At $10, I think it is value for money, as it comes with a generous stack of tender pulled pork bathed in a housemade barbecue sauce, topped with apple slaw. You can choose either ciabatta or burger buns and it is served with salad or fries.

The only downside to the juicy pork is that the bottom half of my ciabatta became soggy. However, better that than the dry pork.

My favourite dish is duck confit ($12), served on couscous flavoured with turmeric and coriander powder and sprinkled with raisins, and drizzled with balsamic reduction.

There is no need for a knife here as the duck meat falls off the bone and pairs well with the spiced couscous.

Do not miss the pumpkin salted egg fries ($7). They are coated in a rich pumpkin sauce mixed with salted egg - this is a good combination that leaves me wanting more sauce.

My concern for the stall is that it faces stiff competition from the other popular ones in the coffee shop, such as the former Longhouse hawkers serving braised duck and rojak.

However, looking at the satisfied faces of Ms Loh's patrons, I think everyone is belly happy indeed.

A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on September 06, 2015, with the headline 'Belly good Western fare'. Print Edition | Subscribe