SINGAPORE - (THE NEW PAPER) Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay is a star in the food world and this has resulted in heightened expectations of his new restaurant Bread Street Kitchen, which serves British European fare.
But based on early reviews, its reputation is shinier than its food. I was able to confirm that when I turned up unannounced a week after it opened. I was impressed by the service, less so by what they served.
I shared my thoughts with my circle of trusted foodies and they responded with the same: It was not worth the money.
A month after it opened, I was invited back. The food was better but still not spectacular.
But that hasn't stopped Bread Street Kitchen from packing in the crowds. Good luck trying to get a table without reservations. Sometimes it's really just about the chef.
For me, the star dish is the slow-roasted Dingley Dell pork belly ($28), with a crispy and almost hard skin. It was delicious both times I tried it. What gives this dish its edge is the spiced apple puree.
The tamarind spiced chicken wings ($18) have an aromatic coating of spices, but the chicken was overcooked the first time. It was better on my return visit - but not by much.
The potted salt beef brisket ($18) was fragrant but the taste was overwhelmed by the mustard. The beef was also dry and almost stringy.
I was wrong when I thought the Brits could never mess up fish and chips ($26). The first time I ate this, there was a horrible taste of stale oil in the batter, like they had re-fried it. It had improved on my return visit though.
I enjoyed the flatbread ($20). It is a simple dish with a savoury topping. A good starter that should please all.
Bread Street Kitchen
L1-81, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
Opening hours: 11.30am-10pm (Sunday to Wednesday); 11.30am-2am (Thursday to Saturday)
This article was first published on July 15, 2015.
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