Cheap & Good

Cheap & Good: Burgers with juicy patties at Burgs by Project Warung

The breakfast burger at Burgs by Project Warung.
The breakfast burger at Burgs by Project Warung.ST PHOTO: ANJALI RAGURAMAN

The last place you would expect to find American-style hamburgers with all the trimmings is Golden Mile Food Centre, which is better known for its tulang offerings.

But nestled in the basement, amid Indian-Muslim food and drink stalls, is Burgs by Project Warung. Open since the middle of last month, the Muslim-owned stall is run by trained chefs Shah Indra; Lee Syafiq, both 25; and Mohammed Ridzuan, 23. They wanted to focus on burgers because they think of them as comfort food and "something that everyone understands, whether you're a kid or an older person", says Mr Indra.

Even more amazing is the price of the burgers, which ranges from $4.50 to $6.50 for the small menu of three beef, two chicken and one fish burger.

While the pricing is comparable with that at most fast-food restaurants, the quality of the burgers is far superior. The standouts are the Mushroom burger ($5.50) and Burgs' breakfast burger ($6.50).

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The former comes with perfectly caramelised onions, crispy oyster mushrooms and just enough nacho cheese sauce to bind all the flavours without being cloying.

The latter lives up to the "breakfast" in its name, thanks to the addition of scrambled eggs and smoked beef bacon, making for an extremely satisfying burger. American cheese can be included for an additional $0.50, but the burger is delicious without it.

The beef patties are all cooked medium well to well done, but they can be cooked to your preferred doneness. Either way, the meat is juicy and succulent, so make sure you have napkins on standby for this meal.

  • BURGS BY PROJECT WARUNG


    B1-24 Golden Mile Food Centre, 505 Beach Road; open: Tuesdays to Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays (11am to 2.30pm, 5 to 9pm), Fridays (11am to 1pm, 5 to 9pm), closed on Mondays. During Ramadan, opening hours daily are from 11am to 1.30pm and 5 to 6.30pm. Closed on Mondays; tel: 9154-4038; www.facebook.com/ProjectWarungsg

    Rating: 4/5

The Australian beef used in the burger patties is also broken down in-house before service, so there is a limit to how many burgers are sold each day. Each plain bun, from a bakery in Joo Chiat, comes stamped with the Burgs logo. It is little details like these that make these "gourmet burgers" stand out.

All burgers come with thick-cut fries, with the skin still on. The fries are, however, a little dry and bland.

I also try the okonomi fries ($2.50) that come topped with honey soya sauce, house-made mayonnaise and bonito flakes.

While the combination is unique, I find the honey soya sauce a little too sweet. Perhaps it would work better with a savoury takoyaki sauce.

Other side dishes include honey soya or Korean-style chicken wings ($3.90 to $5.90), garlic fries ($1.90), cheese fries ($2.50) and onion rings ($2.90).

For the fasting month, last dinner orders are taken by 6.30pm and the owners thoughtfully offer to hold off firing the burgers until break fast time, so that the burgers are warm for eating.

The partners also say they are working on a new menu that will probably be launched after Ramadan.

A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on June 18, 2017, with the headline 'Burgers with juicy patties'. Print Edition | Subscribe