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Chasing the lights
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Northern Norway is ideal for travellers hoping to tick the Northern Lights off their bucket list. Deep within the Arctic Circle - in the middle of the aurora borealis zone, which runs from latitude 65 to 72 deg, the Northern Lights flare across the sky all year long. It takes only a dark, clear sky to see them.
In Tromso, which is latitude 70 deg and 350km north of the Arctic Circle, the aurora season runs roughly from Aug 20 to April 20. Because of the earth's rotation, the city enters the aurora zone from about 6pm to midnight every day. More than 20 companies provide a range of Northern Lights tours from the city, from tours by snow shoe and snow mobile to those by husky and by boat.
Still, seeing the lights does require a bit of luck. On my first night in Tromso, I am told the lights have been spectacular, waves and bursts of green and purple all across the sky, but my flight lands too late for me to catch them.
The next night, I go on an aurora hunt with Karina Weinschenk of Scan Adventure (www.scanadventure.no), who, I am told, is one of the best in the business. She can make out the faintest of Northern Lights, even when they look like nothing more than slight, grey wisps to the naked eye.
Sadly, that is all we manage to see, despite scanning the cloudy sky for hours. We even drive from Tromso to neighbouring Finland in an attempt to escape the clouds, but to no avail.
Two nights later in Lofoten, an archipelago of islands south of Tromso, I join Mr Jann Engstad, a guide for Lofoten Aktiv (www.lofoten-aktiv.no). The sky is again covered in clouds and he tells me he is not optimistic. In the end, we manage to see faint flickers of green, but it is nothing compared to the vibrant show he captured on his camera the night before.
From my guides, I learn that the best time to see the lights is on a clear night during a new moon, when the darker night makes the colours most defined. I'm thankful that at least, in autumn, I am not standing in the freezing cold for hours with nothing to show for it.
I do manage to catch a glimpse of the lights one night while I am having dinner in Tromso. From the restaurant window I see people standing still, faces tilted to the sky. I run outside and, sure enough, curtains and wisps of jade are undulating across the sky and though they are dimmed by the bright lights of the city, they are nothing short of magical.
It is their movement, the way they ripple and sway, that makes them so exciting.
I stand mesmerised by their diaphanous glow and I understand then why people travel time and time again to see them, why people hunt them so obsessively and why, when Ms Weinschenk saw the faintest of glimmers of green beyond the clouds, she jumped and cheered even though she had seen them a thousand times before.
Lydia Vasko