TOKYO • Slurp up this documentary if you want to know why Japanese people are hooked on ramen.
Ramen Heads, which aims to offer global audiences a tasty insight into the passion behind this inexpensive dish, was screened at film festivals in seven countries prior to its Japan premiere late last month.
The show was cooked up when producer Arata Oshima watched Jiro Dreams Of Sushi, a documentary made by an American director that followed Jiro Ono, who runs a Tokyo sushi restaurant that has earned three Michelin stars.
"I found it frustrating that a non-Japanese director had to produce a film on Japanese food culture," Oshima, 48, recalled. "However, high-end sushi isn't something ordinary people can afford to enjoy.
"I believe ramen is part of authentic Japanese food culture."
Koki Shigeno, 52, who directed Ramen Heads, has made TV programmes featuring chefs, but had never worked on a film for cinema.
"Many customers line up for hours just to eat a bowl of ramen, while chefs pursue the best of the best, like seekers looking for the truth. I think these phenomena are very interesting," he said.
"I was curious to know how people overseas would feel about it."
Ramen Heads focuses on Osamu Tomita, 39, owner and chef of ramen shop Chukasoba Tomita - dubbed one of the best in Japan - in Matsudo, Chiba prefecture.
The production team followed him for more than a year and also visited other eateries.
Shigeno found it surprising that Tomita dines at other ramen shops with his family on his days off.
"It's not for research. He just likes the noodles," the director said.
The documentary has been shown at film festivals in 10 cities in the Netherlands, the United States, Norway and four other countries.
Shigeno and Tomita attended two of the events: Hot Docs Canadian International Documentary Festival in Toronto and San Sebastian International Film Festival in Spain.
At the Canadian event, the film was shown at a theatre with 300 seats. All four screenings sold out.
A scene in the documentary showing diners slurping their ramen prompted some members of the audience to cover their ears with their hands, but when similar scenes were shown later, those same hands broke into applause.
"I intentionally put focus on those slurping scenes as I am aware that this way of eating can be offensive to some foreign viewers," Shigeno said.
"However, I didn't expect audiences would ultimately applaud."
In Spain, the film drew so many viewers that festival organisers added extra screenings.
Tomita also created a set meal that included ramen and some other dishes using local ingredients.
"I didn't see any ramen shops in San Sebastian so I thought it was the first time locals were eating the noodles," the chef said.
"I was glad to find delicious dishes can be recognised as tasty no matter where you are. I hope viewers understand what's behind the delicious ramen we serve: namely, our passion for preparation, choosing ingredients and hospitality towards diners," he added.
Ramen Heads is scheduled to screen in more than 10 US cities, including New York and Los Angeles, from next month to April.
"We'll kick off in the United States and hope to show it in Europe too," Oshima said.
In addition to Ramen Heads, more ramen-themed films will be dished out this year.
One is tentatively titled Ramen Teh, a Japanese, French and Singaporean joint production directed by Singaporean film-maker Eric Khoo.
Among the earliest films about ramen, Tampopo (1985) is the most notable. Directed by Juzo Itami, it stars Tsutomu Yamazaki as a man who tries to revive a shop.
WASHINGTON POST
