THE LONG WAIT IS OVER for the Japanese as the sakura, or cherry blossom, springs to life again. Here, the sakura trees on both sides of the Meguro River - there are nearly 830 over a distance of 4km - are so huge that their branches hang over the river. The flower is a national obsession for the Japanese, and the countdown to its arrival begins as early as January each year. -- ST PHOTO: KWAN WENG KIN

The Japanese people react in pretty much the same way each year when awaiting the arrival of the sakura, or cherry blossom.

The national obsession with the sakura is unparalleled. No other flower is accorded the same exalted status as the pale pink blossoms that signal the coming of spring.

Predicting exactly when the blossoms appear each year is serious business. The countdown begins as far back as January.

Last year, the government's Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA) made a big boo-boo. Just days after it had announced its sakura forecast, it was forced to retract it after discovering that the result had been based on wrong data fed into its computer.

Businesses organising sakura festivals that had tailored their schedules according to the agency's earlier forecast cried foul because they had to redo publicity materials at extra cost.

Increasingly, weather forecasting companies have joined in the competition each year to see who makes the better forecast.

Like the JMA, each company uses the changes in daily temperatures and other weather data for its calculations, but the forecasting formulae are often based on the rule of thumb rather than rigorous scientific logic.

To enhance its forecasts, for instance, Weathernews, a Tokyo company, has about 17,000 monitors around the country who are asked to report on the condition of the buds on sakura trees in their neighbourhoods.

The most closely monitored of forecasts are almost always thrown to the wind by last-minute, capricious changes in the weather.

This year, the sakura officially arrived in the Tokyo area on March 22, four days earlier than predicted by the JMA.

The declaration was made after officials counted six blooms on a reference tree located in the Yasukuni Shrine, which is as well known for the splendour of its sakura trees as for its enshrinement of Japan's war dead.

The declaration kicked off the short sakura season, sending people rushing to organise hanami or flower-viewing parties under the cherry trees before the blooms fade. This happens after about 10 days or when the rain washes them away, whichever comes earlier.

Supermarkets and department stores bring out hanami lunch boxes, decorated with preserved sakura flowers and featuring cherry-inspired desserts.

This year, several restaurants endorsed by the Tokyo Michelin food guide put out up-market lunch boxes that cost up to 7,000 yen (S$97) each. Despite the steep prices, they were reportedly snapped up by well-heeled matrons in their 50s to 70s.

Each evening, television reporters bring viewers up to date on the sakura 'wave' that is sweeping the country.

Which is the best place in Tokyo to view the sakura?

People here are absolutely spoilt for choice.

Chidorigafuchi, located along the outer moat of the Imperial Palace in central Tokyo, is very popular, although most people undoubtedly have their own local favourite spots.

For those seeking new ideas, train companies hand out guides to the best spots along the lines that they operate.

Taxi drivers are only too happy to tell you where to go even at midnight, as I discovered the other day when I hopped into a taxi beside a sakura tree whose blossoms were eerily lit by the glow of the street lights.

'The flowers are almost in full bloom,' said driver Kazushi Higashi, pointing to the blossoms overhead.

'The sakura trees along the Meguro River, near where I live, are really spectacular,' he added enthusiastically.

I knew exactly what he meant.

There are nearly 830 sakura trees on both sides of the river over a distance of some 4km.

When the trees are in full bloom, this flowery corridor is truly a sight to behold and offers an unforgettably scenic walk.

Sakura-viewing tours are also said to be getting very popular, especially among wealthy retirees with time and money on their hands.

Many of them head for Kyoto, or more precisely to Mount Yoshino, where it is said that one can see 1,000 sakura trees on the slopes at a single glance.

But the Japanese obsession with the sakura is not just about having fun or appreciating beauty. The sakura season happens to coincide with that time of the year when many Japanese arrive at major milestones in their lives, be it graduation, entry to a new school or joining their first company.

So the sakura season both marks a new step in the lives of many young Japanese, as well as a time of nostalgia for the older generation.

For me, the sakura also has a special significance, as it arrives in Tokyo around the time of my birthday.

Each time I see the cherry blossoms, I am reminded that I am one year older and there is another year to look forward to.

wengkin@sph.com.sg