NEW YORK - THE fashion industry made it clear at its annual awards ceremony Monday night that it's looking to future stars to see it past the doldrums of the recession, shunning longtime favourites and honouring a largely new guard: Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang - and Michelle Obama.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America's special tribute award went to the first lady, considered a new player in this world.

Although she was missing from the crowd at Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Centre for the Performing Arts, Mrs Obama's presence was felt throughout the star-studded ceremony, which included Heidi Klum and Blake Lively, both wearing Michael Kors, and Bradley Cooper in a Calvin Klein suit.

It took host Tracey Ullman less than two minutes in her opening monologue to mention the new first lady of fashion. As complimentary as she was, though, Ullman, a Brit, did say Mrs Obama shouldn't have worn a cardigan to meet Queen Elizabeth II.

Mrs Obama accepted her award via a pre-taped video speech. Wearing a crisp white button-down shirt and two strands of pearls, she honoured fashion as an American 'art form' with 'ingenuity and craftsmanship that contribute so much to our economy and culture.'

Rodarte beat out industry veterans Narciso Rodriguez and Marc Jacobs, while Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez topped Jacobs and Vera Wang in the accessories category.

Jacobs didn't go home empty-handed, though. He was named the top international designer for Louis Vuitton.

Comedian and talk show host Jimmy Fallon read the names of both Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein and Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders in a tie in the menswear category.

Alexander Wang and his rocker look beat Jason Wu and Thakoon Panichgul, both favourites of Mrs Obama, for the Swarovski Award as the up-and-coming womenswear designer, while Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewellery won for accessories and Tim Hamilton won for menswear.

Several big Hollywood names honoured GQ creative director Jim Moore. Tom Cruise and Jake Gyllenhaal appeared in a video with Moore, and Justin Timberlake appeared on stage, in a black suit, skinny black tie, silver tie clip and white pocket-square, looking almost like Moore's twin. -- AP